Summer can be a difficult time for pets, both big and small. The increase in temperature can mean some animals are not able to cope with it and can overheat. As a pet owner there are some things you can do to help reduce the strain on your much loved pets.
Small animals, such as hamsters through to guinea pigs may find their sleeping patterns become disturbed if they are in an area that is too hot for them. Consider where you put their bedding and living quarters. You may want to move them to a cooler room, away from direct sunlight. You can also consider cage covers as a good way of keeping a bit of shade around. Water is also an issue in the summer. It will inevitably warm up in sunlight, causing it to become stale. You might even notice algae blooms appearing. A great way to combat this is to clean the bottle daily with a disinfectant designed for rodents, making sure to thoroughly rinse. You can also use a special insulated bottle in order to keep water cooler for longer.
Cats will love the sunshine. They will bask in the suns rays given any chance they can. This can be a problem though, as many outdoor cats will suffer from sunburn. Using a small dab of sun lotion on ear tips and other areas of exposed skin can help the sun seeking feline to stay sun burn free! Water should also be kept cool and clean, many cars will and do drink from puddles, but at this time of year it is often difficult to find area to sip, so your own water bowl may be their only choice!
Dogs also tend to feel the heat. As with cats, using sun lotion on exposed areas of skin for the outdoor loving dog can help reduce sunburn. Be aware that on very hot days your dog’s paws may also be at risk of burn from hot tarmac! Leave walking your dog until later in the day if you can when it is cooler. If you go for a long walk you may want to take a ‘pocket puddle’ with you, they conveniently fold into a small pouch and provide an excellent portable bowl for water stops along the way. Also remember never to leave your dog in the car on a hot day, even if it is just for 20 minutes, it can be deadly. If travelling in the car, there are some things you can do to make your dog more comfortable. Portable/non-spill water and food bowls makes stopping for refreshments easy and the vehicle window guards means your dog can enjoy fresh air without the dangers of having the window fully open.
For those with more exotic pets, keeping an eye on temperature is key. Most set-ups should have a thermometer and thermostat to keep an eye and adjust automatically. Sometimes it gets too hot for that adjustment to be significant. You may want to think about turning off some features of your set up, such as heat mats and lamps. You could even try to relocate the vivarium to a cooler spot in the house. Lowering the wattage of heat bulbs is also another thing to consider when trying to maintain the correct temperature in the summer. read up on the ideal temperature and humidity for your pet as this varies widely between different species.
Lastly, keeping an eye on your pet's behaviour is a great way to make sure they are not suffering from heat exhaustion. Reptiles may burrow or squeeze themselves into cooler areas of their enclosure. Rodents will often be seen moving their bedding space to a shady spot. Dogs in particular will display a lot more panting and possibly have a wetter nose than usual. Keeping an eye out for these symptoms, no matter what pet you have will ensure that both you and your companion can enjoy summer to the full.
Monday, 22 August 2011
Saturday, 18 June 2011
Is your dog’s diet healthy?
In recent years we have become very aware of what goes into our food and we are ever increasingly aware of what effects having an unbalanced diet can have. But do we look closely enough at the food we are providing for our pets? Dogs in particular have a varied diet with some owners lavishing them with a cooked roast every night and other owners providing what they feel is a good value food. But how much do we really know about our dog’s food and the level of health it provides?
Beyond the health benefits we should be looking into what the food is made from? Many health and even behavioural problems can arise from feeding foods that don’t agree with your dog, many of which can be found in dog foods, both value and premium. Itchy, flaky or red skin, dry or cracked paws and poor coat condition are some of the obvious signs of a food disagreeing. Inconsistent bowel movements and difficulty or frequent need to go to the toilet are also fairly obvious, but sometimes overlooked, signs. Further more your dog may experience ear or eye problems as well as joint or growth problems if fed the wrong things consistently. The problems may not stop there either; these small health problems can lead to bigger issues as well. Any sign of these problems and you should always consult a vet, but be aware that food and diet plays a huge part in any health issue. Behavioural issues may also arise in some dogs, symptoms such as being irrationally reactive to noise or movement as well as being nervous or aggressive may be down to food not agreeing.
So what foods should you avoid? The first and usually most widely used product is wheat. Some dogs can tolerate an amount of wheat others will suffer when they eat it. Unfortunately it is a cheaper ingredient and therefore used widely in many treats and foods. In their natural states dogs would eat mainly meat and of course a small amount of vegetation and other foods that their prey has eaten. So while they aren’t totally opposed to eating it, continual large amounts may cause your dog to react badly. Always check the back of the food or treat bag; you will be surprised how many foods have it as a first ingredient! The first ingredient listed is the highest percentage one. A second culprit is maize and other cereals. Maize is often used as a replacement for wheat as more dogs can tolerate it than wheat, but it can still cause problems. Beware labels of ‘cereals’ as they tend to be any cereal crop, which doesn’t have to be stated which one on the bag. A small amount of these is okay in most cases but it is usually better to opt for items with these ingredients further down the list, not at the top.
Other foods that dogs may be sensitive to include, soya, dairy, beef, chicken, fish, pork and potato. Not all dogs are sensitive to these things, but if you notice a pattern occurring when you feed a certain type of food (for example beef treats and afterward a red tummy or itchy patches) you may want to avoid them.
So how can you feed your dog a healthier diet? There are several premium dog foods that don’t contain any of these known offenders. Burns and James Wellbeloved are two popular brands & there are many others that tend to use rice as the filler/bulking content. You can also look out for wheat free meat meals or raw meat and mix that with a wheat free mixer. The best way to be sure however is to simply read the back of the packets, many own brands are now coming round to the realisation that a lot of dogs don’t go well with certain foods and as a result the kibble market is changing for the better.
Lastly, why are manufacturers allowed to use ingredients that aren’t healthy? Simply put, not all dogs will be sensitive. You should also keep in mind that the kibble market is relatively new. Twenty odd years back the majority of foods were a mixer and meat set up, but kibble foods slowly became standard because of their convenience. The wheat and cereal in them meant that they were cheaper and that they would keep longer, there wasn’t much to suggest that they would have adverse affects on some dogs. However, as the market evolves and expands, people are finding out about the different ingredients in the foods and if dogs can tolerate them or not. This also means that the varieties are expanding and you as a consumer, by buying what you believe to be best, will have an influence on what is available in the future.
Many owners look for premium foods that offer the best health benefits for their dogs, but with most foods boasting their health benefits it can be hard to know what is needed and indeed what to choose. The best thing to do is to provide what your dog needs at his or her particular stage of life. A growing puppy that needs extra protein requires a different diet to an older dog that needs to keep weight off and possibly have some supplement to support his joints. If you are concerned about what will benefit your dog and what is just wasted in a food you could ask your vet for advice or speak to the breeder where you purchased the dog. Independent pet shops are another good source for nutritional information.
Beyond the health benefits we should be looking into what the food is made from? Many health and even behavioural problems can arise from feeding foods that don’t agree with your dog, many of which can be found in dog foods, both value and premium. Itchy, flaky or red skin, dry or cracked paws and poor coat condition are some of the obvious signs of a food disagreeing. Inconsistent bowel movements and difficulty or frequent need to go to the toilet are also fairly obvious, but sometimes overlooked, signs. Further more your dog may experience ear or eye problems as well as joint or growth problems if fed the wrong things consistently. The problems may not stop there either; these small health problems can lead to bigger issues as well. Any sign of these problems and you should always consult a vet, but be aware that food and diet plays a huge part in any health issue. Behavioural issues may also arise in some dogs, symptoms such as being irrationally reactive to noise or movement as well as being nervous or aggressive may be down to food not agreeing.
So what foods should you avoid? The first and usually most widely used product is wheat. Some dogs can tolerate an amount of wheat others will suffer when they eat it. Unfortunately it is a cheaper ingredient and therefore used widely in many treats and foods. In their natural states dogs would eat mainly meat and of course a small amount of vegetation and other foods that their prey has eaten. So while they aren’t totally opposed to eating it, continual large amounts may cause your dog to react badly. Always check the back of the food or treat bag; you will be surprised how many foods have it as a first ingredient! The first ingredient listed is the highest percentage one. A second culprit is maize and other cereals. Maize is often used as a replacement for wheat as more dogs can tolerate it than wheat, but it can still cause problems. Beware labels of ‘cereals’ as they tend to be any cereal crop, which doesn’t have to be stated which one on the bag. A small amount of these is okay in most cases but it is usually better to opt for items with these ingredients further down the list, not at the top.
Other foods that dogs may be sensitive to include, soya, dairy, beef, chicken, fish, pork and potato. Not all dogs are sensitive to these things, but if you notice a pattern occurring when you feed a certain type of food (for example beef treats and afterward a red tummy or itchy patches) you may want to avoid them.
So how can you feed your dog a healthier diet? There are several premium dog foods that don’t contain any of these known offenders. Burns and James Wellbeloved are two popular brands & there are many others that tend to use rice as the filler/bulking content. You can also look out for wheat free meat meals or raw meat and mix that with a wheat free mixer. The best way to be sure however is to simply read the back of the packets, many own brands are now coming round to the realisation that a lot of dogs don’t go well with certain foods and as a result the kibble market is changing for the better.
Lastly, why are manufacturers allowed to use ingredients that aren’t healthy? Simply put, not all dogs will be sensitive. You should also keep in mind that the kibble market is relatively new. Twenty odd years back the majority of foods were a mixer and meat set up, but kibble foods slowly became standard because of their convenience. The wheat and cereal in them meant that they were cheaper and that they would keep longer, there wasn’t much to suggest that they would have adverse affects on some dogs. However, as the market evolves and expands, people are finding out about the different ingredients in the foods and if dogs can tolerate them or not. This also means that the varieties are expanding and you as a consumer, by buying what you believe to be best, will have an influence on what is available in the future.
Saturday, 4 June 2011
Inviting Wildlife to your Garden
Whether you have a large backgarden or a balcony as your garden space, there are lots of things you can do to invite a healthy array of local wildlife into your outside area. Both children and adults alike will enjoy the many creatures that can be both fun to watch and beneficial for your environment.
The first thing people think of when they talk about backyard wildlife are wild birds. With common species such as Pidgeon, sparrow, starling and thrush to the less common woodpecker, wren and finch, all of them are fun to watch and feed. The best way to attract them is to provide lots of tasty morsels. Bird feeders placed strategically around what available space you have is a sure fire way to find some feathered friends. If you have a large space, bird tables with suet and other bird foods are a good place to start, with hangers and feeders dotted around other areas, such as patios and trees. If your space is limited, there are various window hangers and feeders that will fix neatly on most windows and allow for a close up view of the birds' feeding habits.
However, often an overlooked aspect of feeding birds is what some species naturally eat, bugs of course! Insects help to keep any garden healthy, with bees pollinating and predatory bugs such as ladybirds keeping pesky aphids and the like away, maintaining a careful balance will make any garden thrive. A vast array of bugs will also invite more birds to your garden and help out many of our rarer breeds. If you have a large space, planting fragranced flowers in medium patches will attract bees and butterflies, with some useful plants being buddleja, geranium, hyacinth, lavender, dandelion, clover and nettles. You may even want to keep a 'wild patch' an area where you can allow plants seen as weeds to grow, while mainting it and keeping it tidy. This will allow a huge number of catapillars and later butterflies to frequent there and bring a spot of colour to the garden. If you have a smaller space you can try pot plants or window boxes filled with some butterfly attracting plants or even place a 'bug box' or two. A bug box is a small wooden box, much like a nesting box, but its usually filled with hollowed wooden canes. This makes a perfect place for non aggressive pollinating bees, such as the solitary mining bee, which are becoming rarer and rarer in the UK.
Boxes in general are a good idea to place in the garden. Smaller areas will benefit from a few nesting boxes. You might even want to introduce bat boxes in higher areas, as bats are superb insect catchers and will help keep annoying midges and mosquitoes away. In larger areas, leaving hedgehog boxes in secluded areas will be a nice way to keep some spikey critters around, which will help to keep slugs and snails down too! Of course, you don't have to invest in boxes, a pile of dry twigs and leaves in a secluded area will allow for hedgehogs and maybe even lizards to take refuge. Generally keeping a maintined 'wild' space full of wildflowers and large stones and branches will allow for some interesting animals to make their homes in your back garden.
However, if you intend to attract wildlife, you should also be aware of what you need to do in order to keep away unwanted visitors. If you feed your birds its generally not a good idea to leave food on the floor as this can attract rats. While you are bound to get some rodents in your garden, you want to minimise that so don't leave too many built up areas and those that you do have, make sure to maintain and check occasionaly. Also be careful where you place any nesting boxes, bats in the roof may not be so pleasant! Leaving food out for hedgehogs, badgers or foxes is also not advised. While they are a joy to watch most of the food available (such as cat food which is commonly given to hedgehogs) isnt nutritionally correct. Some wild life specific foods are available from pet shops and garden centres. You will also find that some larger animals, such as foxes will become dependent on you and your food source, bad if you can no longer provide for them and also bad if they start raiding dustbins!
All in all, if you are careful with how you do it, inviting a vast array of local wildlife will be great for you, your garden and the wildlife population in your area. A fantastic win win situation for all!
However, often an overlooked aspect of feeding birds is what some species naturally eat, bugs of course! Insects help to keep any garden healthy, with bees pollinating and predatory bugs such as ladybirds keeping pesky aphids and the like away, maintaining a careful balance will make any garden thrive. A vast array of bugs will also invite more birds to your garden and help out many of our rarer breeds. If you have a large space, planting fragranced flowers in medium patches will attract bees and butterflies, with some useful plants being buddleja, geranium, hyacinth, lavender, dandelion, clover and nettles. You may even want to keep a 'wild patch' an area where you can allow plants seen as weeds to grow, while mainting it and keeping it tidy. This will allow a huge number of catapillars and later butterflies to frequent there and bring a spot of colour to the garden. If you have a smaller space you can try pot plants or window boxes filled with some butterfly attracting plants or even place a 'bug box' or two. A bug box is a small wooden box, much like a nesting box, but its usually filled with hollowed wooden canes. This makes a perfect place for non aggressive pollinating bees, such as the solitary mining bee, which are becoming rarer and rarer in the UK.
Boxes in general are a good idea to place in the garden. Smaller areas will benefit from a few nesting boxes. You might even want to introduce bat boxes in higher areas, as bats are superb insect catchers and will help keep annoying midges and mosquitoes away. In larger areas, leaving hedgehog boxes in secluded areas will be a nice way to keep some spikey critters around, which will help to keep slugs and snails down too! Of course, you don't have to invest in boxes, a pile of dry twigs and leaves in a secluded area will allow for hedgehogs and maybe even lizards to take refuge. Generally keeping a maintined 'wild' space full of wildflowers and large stones and branches will allow for some interesting animals to make their homes in your back garden.
However, if you intend to attract wildlife, you should also be aware of what you need to do in order to keep away unwanted visitors. If you feed your birds its generally not a good idea to leave food on the floor as this can attract rats. While you are bound to get some rodents in your garden, you want to minimise that so don't leave too many built up areas and those that you do have, make sure to maintain and check occasionaly. Also be careful where you place any nesting boxes, bats in the roof may not be so pleasant! Leaving food out for hedgehogs, badgers or foxes is also not advised. While they are a joy to watch most of the food available (such as cat food which is commonly given to hedgehogs) isnt nutritionally correct. Some wild life specific foods are available from pet shops and garden centres. You will also find that some larger animals, such as foxes will become dependent on you and your food source, bad if you can no longer provide for them and also bad if they start raiding dustbins!
All in all, if you are careful with how you do it, inviting a vast array of local wildlife will be great for you, your garden and the wildlife population in your area. A fantastic win win situation for all!
Monday, 21 March 2011
Caring for a chameleon
Many people look at chameleons and their usual reaction is ‘wow’ or ‘cool!’. It’s true that chameleons are one of the most stunning and unusual reptiles you can keep. But it’s also true that they have specific care needs and without getting this right they can quickly become ill and unhappy. Chameleons live for around 5 years and for all that time they need a lot of special care. So before you get a chameleon, be sure to read this care sheet and make sure you are prepared to give your new pet all it needs.
The first thing you need to know is what type of chameleon you will be getting. The most commonly found species is the Panther Chameleon and the Veiled or Yemen Chameleon. Both species are striking, yet the Veiled chameleon is usually easier to keep and easier to obtain, this care sheet will focus on the Veiled chameleon because of this. Whatever type of chameleon you decide to get, make sure that you not only read up on it, but ensure it is a captive bred Chameleon. This is often shown as ‘CB’ on stock lists and supplier’s lists. Wild caught chameleons are often unhealthy, often with parasites, they may not tame and usually endure long and stressful journeys to reach you, so it is best to buy a captive bred chameleon.
The veiled chameleon comes from some parts of Saudi Arabia and most parts of Yemen (hence it’s other common name). It would naturally be found in very hot areas, near streams. Some veiled chameleons can be found in desert areas, near streams with limited vegetation, while others are found in lush highland plateaus. While your chameleon is captive bred, it’s body is still adapted to these conditions and this is helpful in knowing how to provide a suitable enclosure.
The enclosure
The veiled chameleon comes from some parts of Saudi Arabia and most parts of Yemen (hence it’s other common name). It would naturally be found in very hot areas, near streams. Some veiled chameleons can be found in desert areas, near streams with limited vegetation, while others are found in lush highland plateaus. While your chameleon is captive bred, it’s body is still adapted to these conditions and this is helpful in knowing how to provide a suitable enclosure.
The enclosure
Keepers should look to construct a tall structure with some sort of meshing, either fine aluminum or something to withstand the heat of bulbs. Or you may wish to use the more traditional wooden or glass vivariums, which are readily available. What ever you choose, make sure that your chameleon has plenty of space to move, up and down, and that there will be enough room to create a thermal gradient. As a general rule there should be at least 25”/64cm of height in the enclosure. Another important aspect is ventilation. As chameleons like humidity and heat, poor ventilation means that fungus and bacteria can grow rapidly, this nearly always results in your chameleon becoming ill. To avoid this, make sure there is at least one mesh door. If your entire enclosure is mesh this will be fine, some glass vivariums have mesh tops and ventilated doors, this may be adequate. If you use a traditional vivarium, with sliding doors, simply replace one of the doors for a thin frame with mesh, its best placed furthest away from the heat lamp, as air will circulate the best like this.
No matter what you use, you should never place a chameleon next to noisy areas, or high traffic areas, they will get stressed! You should also avoid putting them in direct sunlight, near radiators or doorways. All of these things can cause temperature irregularities, which will stress your chameleon. Above all you should only ever house one chameleon at a time. In the wild they would not be sociable creatures and it only serves to stress them when put in permanent close quarters!
You should also aim to provide some chunky and robust climbing structures, securing large branches is a good place to start. You can add live or plastic plants in sturdy, heavy pots, make sure none of the plants or plastics are toxic! Make sure your chameleon can access all areas of the enclosure so he can climb around and regulate his temperature. Placing lots of different branches, vines and plants helps your chameleon to feel safer and gives more scope for feeding and watering.
Heating, Lighting and Humidity.
The veiled chameleon, coming from very warm areas, needs a high temperature range, around 32-36 Celsius during the day at the hottest part of the vivarium, known as the basking area. The other end, usually lower down, should be around 22-26 Celsius at the very least, higher than this is okay as long as there is a gradient of heat for the chameleon to move in and out. The heat can be provided by a 40-60 watt basking bulb, usually fitted outside of the enclosure to stop your pet from burning itself. In mesh enclosures, or those with mesh tops this is easily done, but in am traditional style vivarium you will need to fit the bulb well out of reach of the chameleon. Most keepers advise you not to put a guard around the bulb as the chameleon may climb onto it and still burn itself, or even worse pull the guard off and injure itself. Its much better to keep it well out of reach.
Along with heat, comes UV rays. It is essential for your chameleon to get UV as this helps to synthesize vitamin D3, a much needed nutrient. This is best provided with a special reptile UV light. These are usually fitted onto the back or on top of the enclosure and powered by a ‘starter’. The light is angled down with use of a reflector. Make sure the light you are buying is meant for providing UVB and UVA to reptiles and that it has at least 5.0 UVB/UVA, tungsten (light bulbs) or fish tank lights are not adequate for this. However some companies, such as exoterra, sell ‘canopy tops’, which is an all in one enclosure for UVA/B lamps, a convenient way to site these otherwise unsightly bulbs.
Lastly you will need to provide humidity in the enclosure, although veiled chameleons come from hot areas they are naturally found where insects are abundant, this usually means in high humidity areas. Providing this for your chameleon is straightforward and can team up with your ‘watering’ method. Spraying the enclosure 4-6 times a day can help, although a dripper, a water container that drips a regulated supply of water, usually into a dish, real plant or collection tray, is usually a better method. Don’t let your chameleon get too wet, excess water is not a good idea and can lead to health problems. Some keepers use potted plants to help moisten the atmosphere, although chameleons will sometimes eat the plants so use non toxic varieties, such as umbrella plants, fiscus and hibiscus. Even better, use plastic plants, settled in pots filled with large vermiculite, that you can spray regularly.
Providing water.
The first thing people usually notice is that there are no water bowls in our chameleon enclosures. Some chameleons, especially young ones, can fall and drown into water, but the main reason that a static bowl of water is not provided is that the chameleons cannot see it! Chameleons can only see moving water, or water that is collecting on surfaces. This is why spraying them regularly is one of the best ways to give them water. They will happily lick droplets from the side of the enclosure, leaves and other décor in the vivarium. If you cannot spray them regularly, maybe because you are away for some of the day, provide a dripper. This is suspended bottle of water with a tube that regulates the flow of drips. It’s a great way to maintain humidity and provide a permanent source of water.
However you provide water, make sure it is always fresh, if using tap water make sure you let it stand for a little bit to get rid of the chlorine however it is generally better to use mineral water as it contains less chemicals. You should also slightly warm the water, especially if you spray it, as the water cools quite quickly when sprayed and can be quite a shock to your poor chameleon! Boiled and slightly cooled water is a great way to do this, but make 100 percent sure to test that the water is not too hot or cold by spraying your arm at a reasonable distance.
Feeding
The diet is the most important part for a chameleon as it helps keep it in tip top condition. Chameleons eat live insects, so before buying a chameleon make sure you don’t mind feeding live creepy crawlies. Some chameleons will eat a very small amount of vegetables too. You also need to provide calcium and vitamin powder, usually this is dusted onto insects. The reason you need this is that the amount of light you provide with a UV bulb is not adequate compared to the sun. So to help your chameleon get all the nutrients he needs, a dusting formula is needed. Usually calcium supplement s used but there are specialized veiled chameleon formulas that are probably more suitable.
The main types of bugs you will be feeding will be Waxworms, Mealworms, crickets and occasionally locusts. Young chameleons will like to eat very small brown crickets and occasionally small mealworms, although you should be careful not to provide too many of these as they can be hard to digest. Young chameleons will enjoy fruitflies as aan added nutritious part of their meal. Older and adult chameleons will eat larger brown crickets, don't use black crickets as they have larger jaws and if uneaten can harm the chameleon. Large mealworms, known as super worms or morios are best as there is more flesh to shell and are more digestible. Locusts can also be given in place of crickets. Waxworms can be provided as a treat to all ages, although some chameleons get addicted to them and refuse to take other types of food. This is bad because waxworms are high in fat. Try to offer waxworms only once a week, so this doesn’t happen, they keep for a long time especially if kept cool so a tub will last a while before they turn into moths, which can also be fed to your chameleon!
All insects should be coated in vitamin supplement; you can put them in a bag or tub and gently shake them to do this. You should also give the livefood carrot, spring greens and other leafy vegetables when in their tubs as they will eat them and pass the nutrients on, a technique known as gut loading. When feeding them to your pet chameleon you can use a high sided jar or tub. Sturdy tubs that they cannot crawl out of are great placed on the floor as well as being tied evenly to branches in the enclosure. This makes a great way of stimulating your chameleon and giving your pet a bit of fun during feeding. Some chameleons will also take food from your hand, although you need to tame them and be very patient to get them to do this.
Lastly, some vegetables can be added, your chameleon may or may not eat them. If they don’t its still good to put some in the larger feeding tubs with the insects as stated before, this way they will gut load themselves while in the tub. You can provide spring greens and these can also be dusted in the same way the insects are. Remember to remove any uneaten vegetables so they don't rot and remove insects at night so they don’t harm your chameleon while he sleeps.
You should aim to feed young chameleons as much as they will take, this is usually around 8-20 small insects daily but as they grow older you should restrict it to 6-15 medium or large insects as they will gorge themselves otherwise, leading to health problems later.
Taming your chameleon
Chameleons are not social creatures. In the wild they camouflage themselves and this becomes their main line of defense, so when they are unable to do this they not only become really stressed, but may hiss, rear up and attempt to bite. However sometimes you will need to move your chameleon, maybe to go to the vets, or so you can do a clean of the enclosure. Therefore you may wish to attempt to tame your new pet!
The best way of doing this is to try and purchase a young chameleon, they will be more used to you than an older chameleon, who will be very set in his or her ways. You can start to offer food from the hand, try offering something super tempting, like a waxworm. Hold it very still, on the flat of your hand and try not to make any sudden movements that could scare your pet. Also try not to be scared of your chameleon when it shoots out is tongue, it won’t hurt! When it is regularly accepting waxworms from you try other foods, such as morio or mealworms, this way it will come to trust you. Eventually, when it takes a variety of foods, try putting your arm near you chameleon, it might decide to climb on your hand or arm, but don’t force it! Some chameleons will never like to be picked up, others may even enjoy coming out for a little while, each one is unique so don’t forget to take that into account.
Males and females.
You can tell males and females apart by looking at the back feet. The male veiled chameleon will always have a pad at the back, known as a spur. A female will not. Think carefully about if you want a male or female. Each chameleon is different so temperament is rarely an issue with deciding the sex of your new pet.
The bigger issue is that a female will become ‘gravid’ or full of eggs up to three times a year. If not catered for properly the female can sometimes become egg bound, a major threat to her life. When the female is gravid the abdomen will swell a little and the colours will intensify. She may come down to the bottom of the enclosure more often, during this time you should provide a tub of moist sand, bird sand or reptile sand is the safest. She can then deposit her eggs in this tub. Even if the female does not mate, she will do this and if a tub is not provided the risk of being egg bound is much more. If you don’t feel you want to cope with this as a first time chameleon owner you should make sure you get a male chameleon.
No matter what you use, you should never place a chameleon next to noisy areas, or high traffic areas, they will get stressed! You should also avoid putting them in direct sunlight, near radiators or doorways. All of these things can cause temperature irregularities, which will stress your chameleon. Above all you should only ever house one chameleon at a time. In the wild they would not be sociable creatures and it only serves to stress them when put in permanent close quarters!
You should also aim to provide some chunky and robust climbing structures, securing large branches is a good place to start. You can add live or plastic plants in sturdy, heavy pots, make sure none of the plants or plastics are toxic! Make sure your chameleon can access all areas of the enclosure so he can climb around and regulate his temperature. Placing lots of different branches, vines and plants helps your chameleon to feel safer and gives more scope for feeding and watering.
Heating, Lighting and Humidity.
The veiled chameleon, coming from very warm areas, needs a high temperature range, around 32-36 Celsius during the day at the hottest part of the vivarium, known as the basking area. The other end, usually lower down, should be around 22-26 Celsius at the very least, higher than this is okay as long as there is a gradient of heat for the chameleon to move in and out. The heat can be provided by a 40-60 watt basking bulb, usually fitted outside of the enclosure to stop your pet from burning itself. In mesh enclosures, or those with mesh tops this is easily done, but in am traditional style vivarium you will need to fit the bulb well out of reach of the chameleon. Most keepers advise you not to put a guard around the bulb as the chameleon may climb onto it and still burn itself, or even worse pull the guard off and injure itself. Its much better to keep it well out of reach.
Along with heat, comes UV rays. It is essential for your chameleon to get UV as this helps to synthesize vitamin D3, a much needed nutrient. This is best provided with a special reptile UV light. These are usually fitted onto the back or on top of the enclosure and powered by a ‘starter’. The light is angled down with use of a reflector. Make sure the light you are buying is meant for providing UVB and UVA to reptiles and that it has at least 5.0 UVB/UVA, tungsten (light bulbs) or fish tank lights are not adequate for this. However some companies, such as exoterra, sell ‘canopy tops’, which is an all in one enclosure for UVA/B lamps, a convenient way to site these otherwise unsightly bulbs.
Lastly you will need to provide humidity in the enclosure, although veiled chameleons come from hot areas they are naturally found where insects are abundant, this usually means in high humidity areas. Providing this for your chameleon is straightforward and can team up with your ‘watering’ method. Spraying the enclosure 4-6 times a day can help, although a dripper, a water container that drips a regulated supply of water, usually into a dish, real plant or collection tray, is usually a better method. Don’t let your chameleon get too wet, excess water is not a good idea and can lead to health problems. Some keepers use potted plants to help moisten the atmosphere, although chameleons will sometimes eat the plants so use non toxic varieties, such as umbrella plants, fiscus and hibiscus. Even better, use plastic plants, settled in pots filled with large vermiculite, that you can spray regularly.
Providing water.
The first thing people usually notice is that there are no water bowls in our chameleon enclosures. Some chameleons, especially young ones, can fall and drown into water, but the main reason that a static bowl of water is not provided is that the chameleons cannot see it! Chameleons can only see moving water, or water that is collecting on surfaces. This is why spraying them regularly is one of the best ways to give them water. They will happily lick droplets from the side of the enclosure, leaves and other décor in the vivarium. If you cannot spray them regularly, maybe because you are away for some of the day, provide a dripper. This is suspended bottle of water with a tube that regulates the flow of drips. It’s a great way to maintain humidity and provide a permanent source of water.
However you provide water, make sure it is always fresh, if using tap water make sure you let it stand for a little bit to get rid of the chlorine however it is generally better to use mineral water as it contains less chemicals. You should also slightly warm the water, especially if you spray it, as the water cools quite quickly when sprayed and can be quite a shock to your poor chameleon! Boiled and slightly cooled water is a great way to do this, but make 100 percent sure to test that the water is not too hot or cold by spraying your arm at a reasonable distance.
Feeding
The diet is the most important part for a chameleon as it helps keep it in tip top condition. Chameleons eat live insects, so before buying a chameleon make sure you don’t mind feeding live creepy crawlies. Some chameleons will eat a very small amount of vegetables too. You also need to provide calcium and vitamin powder, usually this is dusted onto insects. The reason you need this is that the amount of light you provide with a UV bulb is not adequate compared to the sun. So to help your chameleon get all the nutrients he needs, a dusting formula is needed. Usually calcium supplement s used but there are specialized veiled chameleon formulas that are probably more suitable.
The main types of bugs you will be feeding will be Waxworms, Mealworms, crickets and occasionally locusts. Young chameleons will like to eat very small brown crickets and occasionally small mealworms, although you should be careful not to provide too many of these as they can be hard to digest. Young chameleons will enjoy fruitflies as aan added nutritious part of their meal. Older and adult chameleons will eat larger brown crickets, don't use black crickets as they have larger jaws and if uneaten can harm the chameleon. Large mealworms, known as super worms or morios are best as there is more flesh to shell and are more digestible. Locusts can also be given in place of crickets. Waxworms can be provided as a treat to all ages, although some chameleons get addicted to them and refuse to take other types of food. This is bad because waxworms are high in fat. Try to offer waxworms only once a week, so this doesn’t happen, they keep for a long time especially if kept cool so a tub will last a while before they turn into moths, which can also be fed to your chameleon!
All insects should be coated in vitamin supplement; you can put them in a bag or tub and gently shake them to do this. You should also give the livefood carrot, spring greens and other leafy vegetables when in their tubs as they will eat them and pass the nutrients on, a technique known as gut loading. When feeding them to your pet chameleon you can use a high sided jar or tub. Sturdy tubs that they cannot crawl out of are great placed on the floor as well as being tied evenly to branches in the enclosure. This makes a great way of stimulating your chameleon and giving your pet a bit of fun during feeding. Some chameleons will also take food from your hand, although you need to tame them and be very patient to get them to do this.
Lastly, some vegetables can be added, your chameleon may or may not eat them. If they don’t its still good to put some in the larger feeding tubs with the insects as stated before, this way they will gut load themselves while in the tub. You can provide spring greens and these can also be dusted in the same way the insects are. Remember to remove any uneaten vegetables so they don't rot and remove insects at night so they don’t harm your chameleon while he sleeps.
You should aim to feed young chameleons as much as they will take, this is usually around 8-20 small insects daily but as they grow older you should restrict it to 6-15 medium or large insects as they will gorge themselves otherwise, leading to health problems later.
Taming your chameleon
Chameleons are not social creatures. In the wild they camouflage themselves and this becomes their main line of defense, so when they are unable to do this they not only become really stressed, but may hiss, rear up and attempt to bite. However sometimes you will need to move your chameleon, maybe to go to the vets, or so you can do a clean of the enclosure. Therefore you may wish to attempt to tame your new pet!
The best way of doing this is to try and purchase a young chameleon, they will be more used to you than an older chameleon, who will be very set in his or her ways. You can start to offer food from the hand, try offering something super tempting, like a waxworm. Hold it very still, on the flat of your hand and try not to make any sudden movements that could scare your pet. Also try not to be scared of your chameleon when it shoots out is tongue, it won’t hurt! When it is regularly accepting waxworms from you try other foods, such as morio or mealworms, this way it will come to trust you. Eventually, when it takes a variety of foods, try putting your arm near you chameleon, it might decide to climb on your hand or arm, but don’t force it! Some chameleons will never like to be picked up, others may even enjoy coming out for a little while, each one is unique so don’t forget to take that into account.
Males and females.
You can tell males and females apart by looking at the back feet. The male veiled chameleon will always have a pad at the back, known as a spur. A female will not. Think carefully about if you want a male or female. Each chameleon is different so temperament is rarely an issue with deciding the sex of your new pet.
The bigger issue is that a female will become ‘gravid’ or full of eggs up to three times a year. If not catered for properly the female can sometimes become egg bound, a major threat to her life. When the female is gravid the abdomen will swell a little and the colours will intensify. She may come down to the bottom of the enclosure more often, during this time you should provide a tub of moist sand, bird sand or reptile sand is the safest. She can then deposit her eggs in this tub. Even if the female does not mate, she will do this and if a tub is not provided the risk of being egg bound is much more. If you don’t feel you want to cope with this as a first time chameleon owner you should make sure you get a male chameleon.
Monday, 7 March 2011
Dog coats UK
Dog coats UK
But firstly, why do dogs need coats? Not long ago most people would laugh at the idea of putting a dog in a coat. However, slowly people are coming to realise the benefits of giving your dog that extra protection when they take much needed exercise in the wet or cold weather.
The first function of a dog coat is to keep your dog clean and dry. Many of our dog coats will offer protection against mud, snow and the dreaded grit that gets in their fur. This can not only lead to mess in your home but an uncomfortable and sometimes painful grooming experience for your dog too!
Something else that is usually overlooked by dog coat sceptics is the health benefits. Dogs need regular exercise to have both good physical and mental health, if your dog is less messy when he or she returns you will be happier to take them!
Deep Chested breeds or older dogs will also be more susceptible to cold, damp weather, which can lead to respiratory problems and inevitably vets bills! Simply keeping them warm and dry can help reduce this risk. The same goes for arthritic dogs or those with skin complaints, keeping them clean, warm and dry whilst out and about is never a bad thing.
Most pet shops stock a good range of dog coats for all types of dogs and measuring your dog couldn't be simpler. Just measure from where the collar usually sits to the base of the tail and that is the size you need. In the case of being between conventional sizes, go one up. So an 11" dog would take a 12" coat. Also if your dog is a bit bigger round the middle you may have to go up as size. So if you want to be sure of good fitment probably best to visit a local store and try some on.
One popular dog coat is the Alex Griffiths Trouser Suit as it features full legs and a zip up back, giving almost complete waterproof protection. It also guards from ice and mud clumps forming on longer hair, always a painful thing to try and remove. Not sure if still available in 2023 but surely some one makes a similar one.
Another brilliant design is the Outhwaites range, particularly the underbelly coat, although it offers slightly less protection, it still covers the chest area and is made from breathable yet waterproof and warm 660d Woven Polyester. This is great for older dogs or those who dislike their legs or paws touched.
I am sure there are many others with similar design available.
But firstly, why do dogs need coats? Not long ago most people would laugh at the idea of putting a dog in a coat. However, slowly people are coming to realise the benefits of giving your dog that extra protection when they take much needed exercise in the wet or cold weather.
The first function of a dog coat is to keep your dog clean and dry. Many of our dog coats will offer protection against mud, snow and the dreaded grit that gets in their fur. This can not only lead to mess in your home but an uncomfortable and sometimes painful grooming experience for your dog too!
Something else that is usually overlooked by dog coat sceptics is the health benefits. Dogs need regular exercise to have both good physical and mental health, if your dog is less messy when he or she returns you will be happier to take them!
Deep Chested breeds or older dogs will also be more susceptible to cold, damp weather, which can lead to respiratory problems and inevitably vets bills! Simply keeping them warm and dry can help reduce this risk. The same goes for arthritic dogs or those with skin complaints, keeping them clean, warm and dry whilst out and about is never a bad thing.
Most pet shops stock a good range of dog coats for all types of dogs and measuring your dog couldn't be simpler. Just measure from where the collar usually sits to the base of the tail and that is the size you need. In the case of being between conventional sizes, go one up. So an 11" dog would take a 12" coat. Also if your dog is a bit bigger round the middle you may have to go up as size. So if you want to be sure of good fitment probably best to visit a local store and try some on.
One popular dog coat is the Alex Griffiths Trouser Suit as it features full legs and a zip up back, giving almost complete waterproof protection. It also guards from ice and mud clumps forming on longer hair, always a painful thing to try and remove. Not sure if still available in 2023 but surely some one makes a similar one.
Another brilliant design is the Outhwaites range, particularly the underbelly coat, although it offers slightly less protection, it still covers the chest area and is made from breathable yet waterproof and warm 660d Woven Polyester. This is great for older dogs or those who dislike their legs or paws touched.
I am sure there are many others with similar design available.
Tuesday, 22 February 2011
Hamster how clean?
Like most domesticated pets, hamsters will generally clean themselves and prefer living in a clean environment. This does however mean that there is a need for you, the hamster's owner, to play your part, by ensuring the cage is always clean and supplied with fresh bedding.
The first thing to point out that your hamster will generally designate one or two areas of its cage for a toilet. If you can change the bedding material in these areas regularly, every couple of days, you should dramatically cut down on the smells that may come from a dirty hamster cage and also prolong the period between full cage cleans.
How often should a hamster cage be cleaned out depends on how dirty they get from day to day, but you do need to ensure that stale food and droppings are removed regularly. A full clean of the hamster cage once a week is recommended.
You should never really have to bathe your hamster. Washing them is not good for their fur as the water removes the natural oils from the fur, which can make them unwell. Chinchilla sand can help keep the coat in good condition, but there may be times when you feel you have to wash your hamster. These should only be in exceptional circumstances, for example if there is something on the fur that may be toxic of harmful to your hamster if ingested (as they lick the fur to clean it). If there is a substance that needs to be removed from the fur you should consider if it is possible to cut it away, or brush it out. If this is not possible or the substance is something like paint or something very sticky and you feel forced to wet your hamster then do so very carefully with a small amount of warm water, keeping it away from the nose, mouth ears and eyes. When clean, dry your hamster very gently with a towel and if possible with a hair drier on a low setting held far away from the hamster. Make sure your hamster is completely dry before returning it to its cage so that the bedding does not stick to the fur.
One thing to consider is that if there is a bad smell coming from your hamster it may be because it is sick and the droppings are not firm, in this case you should take your pet to the vet to be checked over.
If you regularly clean and disinfect your hamster cage and remove droppings and old food as recommended above, you should easily maintain a clean, healthy and sweet smelling home for you and your hamster.
The first thing to point out that your hamster will generally designate one or two areas of its cage for a toilet. If you can change the bedding material in these areas regularly, every couple of days, you should dramatically cut down on the smells that may come from a dirty hamster cage and also prolong the period between full cage cleans.
How often should a hamster cage be cleaned out depends on how dirty they get from day to day, but you do need to ensure that stale food and droppings are removed regularly. A full clean of the hamster cage once a week is recommended.
You should never really have to bathe your hamster. Washing them is not good for their fur as the water removes the natural oils from the fur, which can make them unwell. Chinchilla sand can help keep the coat in good condition, but there may be times when you feel you have to wash your hamster. These should only be in exceptional circumstances, for example if there is something on the fur that may be toxic of harmful to your hamster if ingested (as they lick the fur to clean it). If there is a substance that needs to be removed from the fur you should consider if it is possible to cut it away, or brush it out. If this is not possible or the substance is something like paint or something very sticky and you feel forced to wet your hamster then do so very carefully with a small amount of warm water, keeping it away from the nose, mouth ears and eyes. When clean, dry your hamster very gently with a towel and if possible with a hair drier on a low setting held far away from the hamster. Make sure your hamster is completely dry before returning it to its cage so that the bedding does not stick to the fur.
One thing to consider is that if there is a bad smell coming from your hamster it may be because it is sick and the droppings are not firm, in this case you should take your pet to the vet to be checked over.
If you regularly clean and disinfect your hamster cage and remove droppings and old food as recommended above, you should easily maintain a clean, healthy and sweet smelling home for you and your hamster.
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