Where Did Guinea Pigs Get Their Unusual Name?

Guinea pigs were first brought to the Western world in about 1550, and have been known by this name ever since. Although we are used to the term now, when you think about it, it is an unusual choice seeing as these animals don't come from Guinea, and they aren't related to pigs.
So where did the name come from? Nobody knows for certain, but there are a couple of possible explanations which are the most likely. Let's discuss them by looking at each part of the name on its own.
The 'pig' part is probably the easiest to explain. Although they aren't related to pigs, guinea pigs are very similar to them in several key ways. For example, they are both quite stocky creatures, with big heads and short tails. They both like to spend much of their time eating and sleeping, and both make squeaking noises. It is likely that people saw these similarities, and hence used the term 'pig' as part of this new animal's name. It is not quite as straightforward to explain the term 'guinea' in the name. After all, these animals are from South America, several thousand miles from the country of Guinea.
At the time guinea pigs were first introduced, explorers were beginning to bring back many exotic foods, plants, and pets from their trips, and it became common to refer to anything from these far-away countries as being from 'Guinea'. With this in mind, it's simply a matter of adding this to the term 'pig', and the guinea pig is born! 

Finally, guinea pigs are also known by a completely different name - 'cavies'. Although this sounds entirely different, it has a much simpler origin. The Latin name for these animals is 'Cavia porcellus'. This is a bit long-winded, so people usually use the abbreviated version, cavy. Whichever term you use, I hope that this article has helped you get a better understanding of its origins.

Pete has owned dozens of guinea pigs over the years, and has learned a huge amount about them in this time. His website is packed full of useful information, covering topics such as what food to feed your cavies, and the best toys to keep them stimulated and entertained.



Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Pete_L_Matthews

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CLICK HERE and HERE to view the current stock list of dog coats and look out for more coming soon. We will be adding the latest styles from Alex Griffiths, Armitage and Danish Design over the next few weeks but if you want to pre-order a particular coat from the above makers or one we don't list email us with your request. reptile.ranch@virgin.net  As always the Waggles Flying jacket will no doubt be our best seller again this year, they are so stylish!!

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Small animals: Which one?

Small animals: Which one?

There is no doubt small animals make a fantastic first pet, children find them fun and interesting and even adults melt under their cute looks and behaviour. They are relatively easy to look after and endlessly reward their owners with hours of fun and endless affection, which is what makes them so popular. However, how do you choose what type of small animal is right for you? Ultimately research and contact will be the best way to answer this for yourself, but to help you along the way, here is our quick guide to the most popular types.

Hamsters:
Being small and fluffy as well as having many various coat markings, hamsters are one of the most popular small animal groups. They are often chosen as first pets for children and make playful companions.

Character: Curious and adventurous, fairly intelligent. With the right handling are fairly tame and calm creatures, although will bite if scared or upset. Hamsters are nocturnal and live inside.

Housing: Solid bottomed cage, with either bars or ventilated plastic. Sawdust and paper shreds are used for bedding. Due to their intelligent and active nature they must also have toys in the cage. Must be escape proof. Syrians should be housed alone, although some other species will live together.

Food: Hamsters are omnivorous so can eat a wide range of treats, although they are healthiest when on a staple of dried hamster mix.

Life span: One to three years.


Rat:
Being larger than the hamster and somewhat more active rats make great and entertaining animals. Although not for everyone, their behaviour and large variety of colours makes them very popular.

Character: Highly intelligent, very curious and active. Less likely to bite, but will if annoyed. Can become very tame and can become great companionable pets.

Housing: Large wire cage with at least two levels to allow for exercise. Needs to be solid bottomed and escape proof. Rats are nocturnal and live inside. Can live together if put in single sex groups from an early age.

Food: Omnivorous, they eat a huge range of foods. They do best on a staple of dried rat mix with a variety of treats.

Life span: Two to four years.

Guinea pigs:
Being a larger size, these small animals make great pets as some people find them easier to handle. They are very responsive to their owners and will vocalise during feeding time or when their owners are near, this trait along with their cute looks are some of the reason they are so popular as pets.

Character: Very sociable, clever and active. They can be nervous but with the right handling become extremely tame and will more than often freeze rather than bite.

Housing: They should be housed in a hutch or large cage space, with access to an outdoors run in the summer. In the winter they need to be housed indoors, either in a large cage space or hutch. The cage doesn’t need to be tall as they don’t jump around but they need to have a lot of floor space, as they are active creatures. Soft bedding such as woodshavings or straw should be used. Can be housed with littermates or single sex groups. Must not be housed with rabbits.

Food: Herbivorous, they require a lot of fibrous foods to maintain health. It is best to feed a dry mix specially for guinea pigs and supplement with hay, vegetables and other treats to help wear down teeth.

Life span: Five to eight years.

Rabbits:

With so many breeds and so many different breed characteristics rabbits make truly fascinating pets. It is clear why they are so popular, with their defined personalities and interesting behaviours.

Character: Playful, loving and active. Social but this needs to be maintained to stop them from becoming shy. Companionable if handled well.

Housing: A large hutch, with access to a run in the summer. Rabbits should be taken indoors during the winter. Can be allowed to free roam indoors if done so from a young age and it being safe to do so. The hutch needs to be thoroughly cleaned to avoid fly strike. Can be housed together, space permitting and a male and a female can be placed provided they are neutered. Can also place two does together. Should never be housed with guinea pigs.

Food: Frequent feeding of either a dry mix or a nugget mix formulated for rabbits. This should be supplemented with treats and hay to help wear down the teeth.

Life span: Five to ten years.

Gerbil:

Lively and entertaining, these little critters are a fun pet that makes a fun difference from other small animals. Highly active they will fascinate many owners.

Character: Friendly, inquisitive and social. Very active animals.

Housing: A ‘Plexi’ glass tank known as a gerbilarium is best used as this will allow sufficient ventilation and ensure there are no unwanted escapes! Thick layers of sawdust should be used in the lower half to allow burrowing and digging tunnels. Should be housed with littermates (to prevent fighting) in same sex pairs. They will happily live with mixed sex groups but litters will occur. You should not house them alone.

Food: A dry mix of gerbil food should be a staple, along with various treats. Their diet needs to be carefully handled as they can be susceptible to high fat intake which can cause health issues.

Life span: Three to five years.

Mouse:

Small and cute as well as tame mice make great pets although are probably more suited to older children and adults due to their smaller size.

Character: Happy, playful and active although can be timid or shy at first.

Housing: Solid floored cages, especially built for mice, either with smaller metal bars or plastic sides that they cannot gnaw. A secure lid and soft bedding, much like a hamster is needed. They also require hiding places in order to feel secure. Can be kept in single sex groups or pairs. Males, however, will dispute over territory and produce a musky odour.

Food: Omnivorous, they should be fed a wide variety of treats alongside a staple of dried mouse food. You need to be careful with fat and sugar levels.

Life span: One to three years.

Chinchilla:

Large fluffy and extremely active, chinchillas are good pets if you have the space, they are good for older children and will be loved by all. Their sweet natures nad sociable habits mean they are fascinating creatures.

Character: Very fast and lively characters with a sweet and inquisitive side. Can be slightly timid but usually warm up to their owners quickly.

Housing: Chinchillas need very large cages as they will jump, run and dart around them. A specialised chinchilla cage is best as they have removable trays at the bottom for frequent cleaning. There doesn’t need to be any substrate as they mainly climb but toys, platforms and things to keep them amused are always appreciated. A sand bath that is changed daily should also be available. You can keep chinchillas in pairs or polygamous groups of two to three females to one male.

Food: Chinchillas are true herbivores and as such have delicate digestion, therefore a special chinchilla dry food or pellet should be given. Treats should also accompany this but should be marked safe for chinchillas to avoid giving too much sugar or protein. Hay should also always be available, as they need a lot of fibre and also need to wear down their teeth.

Life span: Ten to twenty years.

Degu:

Lively, social and vocal they love human interaction so make great pets. Perhaps more suited to the more experienced keeper, due to the level of care they require. They do however have a low record of disease, which means they can be very straightforward in their health.

Character: Social, lively, good natured and very curious.

Housing: Their cage needs to be large, focusing on height as they love to climb, much like chinchillas they don’t need bedding although aspen would be appreciated. They also need a sand bath and plenty of toys to keep their active minds busy. They cannot be kept singularly as they are highly social and will not do well with human interaction alone, they need at least one cage mate and will rarely fight. They are active during the day.

Food: True herbivores, they need plenty of hay for their digestive systems. Although degus are becoming more popular, foods for them are not as easily available. Instead you should aim to feed a diet suitable for chinchillas, making sure it is nugget form to stop selective feeding. You also need to avoid sugary foods and treats, as they can get diabetes more easily than other small animals.

Life span: Five to eight years.

Ferrets:
Ferrets are lively and very intelligent, they are active creatures with more complex needs than any of the other small animals and are probably best suited to someone with more experience of pet ownership.

Character: inquisitive, intelligent, active and independent.

Housing: Best put in large wire cages, with multiple levels to allow adequate exercise. They can also be kept in large outdoors enclosures if space permits as well as freely in the house as they can be litter trained. They are social and will prefer living with at least one other ferret, although large groups and un-neutered companions may fight so it is best to keep neutered males and females. They also need plenty of toys or opportunity to use their active minds.

Food: Ferrets are carnivores, so they have largely different diets to any of the other small animals here. They can be fed on a high quality kibble to provide all the protein and fat, some ferret owners will also provide treats such as thawed chicks, tinned meat and raw meats.

Life span: Five to eleven years.

Foods dogs should not have

Foods dogs should not have

It’s great to feed your pet pooch lots of different foods, after all their diet of kibble or meat must seem pretty boring. However some foods that are commonly given to dogs can cause untold damage to their health. Here are what foods you should avoid and what foods you can give instead. If you suspect your dog has eaten any of these foods in large quantities you should promptly seek the advice of a vet.

Chocolate

Chocolate is commonly given to dogs, but even a little bit can be harmful. Chocolate contains the substance Theobromine, which can cause vomiting, diarrhoea, nervousness, tremors and in large doses can cause death. Different types of chocolate have different levels of Theobromine, with dark being the highest. Cocoa powder and things coated in it also contain high levels of this toxic chemical, however even the tiniest bit can be harmful as the chemical is not easily cleared from the liver and kidneys. This means with each dose, it can build up to potentially fatal levels.

What to give instead: You can buy dog chocs, which are made from safe ingredients and have no Theobromine in them. This makes a safe and healthier option that will keep you and your pet happy!

Milk and dairy products

Some people enjoy giving their dogs milk, be it in the form of ice cream or yoghurt. Although the dog will enjoy it, it’s not the best thing to do. Milk contains the sugar Lactose and while your dog is being weaned it has the ability to digest this sugar but as it gets older it looses this ability. This means the sugar sits in the digestive tract and ferments, producing a gas, giving your dog a bad tummy ache and diarrhoea. While in some dogs this can go unnoticed, many dogs have a high intolerance to such products.

What to give instead: Cheese flavoured treats or even lactose free products, however you should still be careful with these. Some dog treats can be derived from milk but are lactose free and these are a great alternative!

Grapes and raisins:

An unknown toxin in grapes and raisins can cause kidney failure in dogs, although this was only discovered very recently, it is something every dog owner should be aware of. Grapes and raisins can cause vomiting, diarrhoea and if left unnoticed can progress to kidney failure.

What to give instead: If you are worried about vitamins getting to your dog, try feeding a small amount of cooked and cooled peas, sweet corn and carrots to the kibble or meat. Make sure they are cooked or they are of no nutritional value!

Bananas:

People often give their canine companion banana, however this could be fatal for the dog. Bananas are high in potassium and while a dog needs a small amount of this for healthy heart, what he or she gets from the bananas is too much. This can, in severe cases cause heart failure.

What to give instead: As a general rule fruits should be avoided, if you are worried about the condition of your dog you could try giving a vitamin supplement or putting a supplement for dogs on his or her meals.

Citrus fruits:

Oranges, lemons, apples and grapefruit are all main contenders here. They contain a lot of vitamin C which is good for the dog in right amounts. However the amount they contain isn’t good when given on top of a healthy diet and the acidity in these fruits can cause problems with the stomach.

What to give instead: Fruits should be avoided generally but if you are wanting to give extra vitamins to the diet try a vitamin supplement for dogs or mixing cooked and cooled peas, sweet corn and carrots with their meat or kibble.

Onions and garlic:

Onions and garlic should never be given to dogs, in any form. The toxins they contain can be fatal for dogs and are hard for dogs to get rid of, so they can build up inside the dogs system. Signs include vomiting, diarrhoea, dark coloured urine, paleness of the gums and tongue and the whites of the eyes turning yellow. Eating onions regularly can cause severe anaemia. If not gone unchecked, eating onions or garlic can cause death.

Mushrooms:

Mushrooms shouldn’t be given to dogs as they contain toxins that can affect the digestive system as well as the nervous system. Symptoms include vomiting, diarrhoea, tremors, fits and difficulty breathing.

Nuts:

Nuts contain many toxins, which can wreak havoc on the nervous system and digestive tract. Your dog may vomit, have diarrhoea, go into anaphylaxis or have a fit from eating nuts. It can cause death in some cases.

Salty foods:

Salty foods given on a regular basis can lead to unbalances in the way dogs handle minerals and water absorption. This can have a wide range of effects from upsets to the digestive system to having a raised temperature and if left unchecked can lead to sever dehydration and death. Eating large amounts of salt is also fatal and should be treated by a vet immediately.

Sugary foods:

Giving sugary foods, especially if regularly, can lead to obesity and most likely diabetes in dogs. It will also affect your dog’s dental health. Also artificial sweeteners can cause liver failure. These foods should never be given.

Rabbit care guide

Rabbit care guide A rabbit care guide is an important tool for all rabbit owners for one main reason. Rabbits are complex creatures both mentally and physically. Unfortunately they are often seen as being quite a simple creature and as such can be entirely accidentally neglected by well intentioned, but less than well educated, folks. It could be that these folks were not quite sure on how best to feed their rabbit or how best to play and have fun with their rabbit. Well, in this article we are going to lay out a very basic rabbit care guide, outlining what you will need to know to raise a happy, healthy and long living pet bunny. The first thing any rabbit owner should consider is what type of rabbit is right for them. In order to do this you must assess your lifestyle: - do you have kids? - do you have a large enough home? - do you have sufficient time? - do you have sufficient money? These are important things to think about because if you have kids it will be a good idea to get a larger breed of rabbit or a large size rabbit. This is because larger rabbits have a more sturdy, muscular physique and so are less likely to be injured by kids. In addition to this larger rabbits generally have a less nervous nature and are therefore unlikely to react badly to excitable kids i.e. kick or bite. Keeping a rabbit require plenty of time and a large enough home to provide him with sufficient space. Generally you will need at least an hour or two each day to feed, groom, exercise and socialise with your pet bunny. Money is also required because you will need to provide your pet with everything he needs. Some things your bunny will need are: - a house... a cage or a pen or a large hutch - water bottles - food bowls - litter box - hay rack - nest box - toys - grooming equipment such as brushes, flea combs, etc - food! Rabbits need pellet foods or natural greens or a combination of both. Grass hay is also very important. In addition to the above considerations you will need to have a good understanding of rabbit care topics such as: - housing your pet rabbit - how to groom your bunny - what to feed your pet and how much to feed him - how to exercise him and keep him fit - how to spot health problems - how to litter box train him and train him to do other things - how to prevent misbehaviour - how to interpret his body language and sounds - how to play and socialise with him So you can see why it is so important to have a good rabbit care guide and that there are many things you need to know to be a great rabbit carer. Nathan Alan is the founder of RabbitProfessor.com and the author of "The Ultimate Guide To Caring For Your Rabbit". He is a house rabbit enthusiast and encourages the use of a good rabbit care guide. Visit him at www.RabbitProfessor.com to find out more about caring for your pet rabbit and grab your FREE rabbit care guide. Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Nathan_Alan

Caring For Pet Amphibians

Amphibians can make unique and wonderful pets, but caring for pet amphibians is often more difficult than many people realize. In nature, amphibians require a delicate environmental balance, and if that environment becomes disrupted, they can become ill and die. It is the same for amphibians that are kept as pets. Keeping their environment stable is a critical task every amphibian pet owner must take seriously.

Amphibians are broken down into three categories; salamanders, frogs and the lesser known caecilians, which are worm like creatures. The most popular pet amphibians are salamanders and frogs, so we will focus on caring for pet amphibians in these categories. In each grouping of these popular pet amphibians you will find more options for a pet available to you than you may believe, as there are over 400 species of frog and 80 species of salamander that can be found in the world.

Your Pet Amphibians Habitat

When keeping amphibians as pets, you must first ensure that you have the proper amphibian habitat set up for your pet before you bring them home. In fact, the most important part of caring for pet amphibians is providing the proper dwelling for them, so you will need to thoroughly research the specific salamander or frog you are getting and set up the appropriate amphibian habitat.

Once the amphibian habitat is set up, you will need to make sure that you are diligent in it's care, and clean the cage the proper way. Remember, just one imbalance in the cage can cause your amphibian to become ill, and it could even prove to be fatal. You must make sure that you have all of the materials necessary to provide your pet amphibians with an environment that is comparable to their natural habitat, so that they have everything they need to survive.

Feeding Amphibians

Feeding amphibians is of course, also essential to their well being. Each type of amphibian requires a different type of food, so when determining which type of pet amphibian to get you first need to make sure you are going to be able to find and purchase the type of food that they need.

Generally, amphibians will require a number of different food sources in order for them to get the various nutrients that they need. Part of caring for pet amphibians is researching the pet thoroughly enough so that you know what these food sources are and can make them readily available to your pet.

Keeping amphibians as pets isn't always easy, but it can be very fun and rewarding. Watching these unique animals grow and thrive is very exciting, and is a great alternative to common pets such as cats or dogs. Popular pet amphibians also make a great pet choice for those with allergies that are limited in the types of pets they can have. As long as you properly research the care and make sure you are providing your pet amphibian with everything that it needs, you should have no problem with your unique pet and can enjoy each others company for quite some time.

Global Pet Village is a worldwide family friendly community for pets and those who care about pets. Our goal is to provide an environment where pet owners can come together and exchange information, pictures, videos, diaries, common interests and useful ideas about their pets.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Cyril_Osakwe

Bearded Dragon Lizard care

Bearded Dragons - Basic care


Bearded dragons can make wonderful pet Lizards, with fantastic and fascinating behaviours they are often sold as the perfect 'beginner' lizard. However much care and thought should be put into buying one as a pet. As with all lizards, they are a long-term commitment and have specialist requirements, which need to be understood.

Bearded dragons originate from Australia; although many of the Bearded Dragons sold are captive bred, meaning they are generally healthier specimens. The lifespan of a Beardie is usually around 7 years, which is why careful consideration must be put into owning one! Due to their natural habitats they are terrestrial creatures that like to occasionally climb. They are generally docile creatures that show a lot of expression through body language, so they can be fascinating to watch. They are also one of the few lizards that will tame nicely and some can become quite friendly toward their owners, however you should still keep in mind that they usually prefer their own space.

Housing a Beardie

Bearded dragons are endothermic, like all lizards, meaning they take their heat from their surroundings. With this in mind their enclosure needs to have adequate space and placement to allow them to regulate their temperature. The vivarium itself should be around 36 Inches to 42 inches long and of no less than 18 to 24 Inches widthways. The height should be adequate to place decor and allow the Beardie to climb, so a height of around 18 to 24 Inches should be available.

There are several types of vivarium available, from the usual ply board and sliding glass door type to the all glass type. Either is sufficient, however the wooden types tend to keep heat in more effectively and reduce stress as the wooden sides don't create reflection like glass vivariums and create secluded corners for your pet to retreat to. However some glass vivariums come with metal mesh on the top and ventilation on the doors, allowing for better air movement than the wooden types.

Whatever type of vivarium you choose, placement in your home is important and should be carefully considered before buying. The vivarium should not be placed in draughts or next to radiators, not should it be placed in direct sunlight. All these things will change the temperature of the enclosure and this can lead to problems with your pet. It should also be placed somewhere quiet, where there isn't a lot of 'traffic' or noise either from people or household appliances. Lastly, careful consideration should be put into whether the vivarium is accessible to other pets or younger children who may be overly inquisitive! This also brings about the last point, always make sure the vivarium is secured, either with it's own locking system or a traditional 'viv lock'!

Heat and lighting

Beardies require a temperature gradient of around 30-35 degrees Celsius at the hottest end and 20-25 degrees Celsius at the coolest end. A basking spot reaching around 40 degrees Celsius is also needed. Creating this gradient is the key to beardie success as it governs all of their habits and workings.

So how do you create the correct temperature gradient for a Bearded Dragon? Well, it partly depends on the type of vivarium you have. The main tools of heating are a heat mat (regulated with a thermostat) and a basking spotlight (in addition to UV lighting).

The general method for creating this gradient means putting a heat mat under the substrate at one end of the vivarium, it should cover around half of the vivarium floor. The heat mat works on infrared and will literally heat the substrate and therefore your lizard. A thermostat is usually required to control the heat mats output, avoiding it from getting too hot, as the heat mat needs to stay on all of the time. You should also place a thermometer at each end to check the gradients.

At the same end a basking light should be mounted. This will provide your lizard the area of concentrated heat it needs as well as heating the air in the vivarium, known as 'ambient heat. How you mount the bulb will depend on the type of vivarium you have. Glass vivariums presuming they have a mesh top can simply have the bulb and lighting unit stood on top of the vivarium. Some vivariums have special units that can clip onto the top. If your vivarium is wooden you can use a standard light fitment and affix the bulb to the wood, inside the enclosure. Sometimes the wooden type vivariums have these prefitted. If you have this type of vivarium you need to also purchase a light guard that can fit onto the bulb fitment ensuring your beardie doesn't climb onto the light, burning itself.

The wattage of the light also needs to be carefully considered. Generally smaller enclosures require a smaller wattage, 50, 75 and 100 watts are good standards although larger cages may need 150w. It is also important to remember glass will not insulate the enclosure as well as wooden sided vivariums, therefore may require a higher wattage. The best thing to do is to ask your local pet store on the specifics of your tank, going from there you can experiment until you are satisfied. This also emphasizes the need to set up your vivarium and running it for a bit to see what needs changing and so on.

Lastly, UV lighting is needed for Beardies. Without proper lighting your beardie cannot manufacture the vitamins he needs from food. This can cause serious implications for your Beardie. Usually a UV light strip, manufactured especially for use in vivariums, is put at the centre toward the top back of the vivarium, allowing even light dispersal. The light is usually powered by a starter unit, which allows you to power the light as well as mount it. Some vivariums come with them already fitted and some, such as glass vivariums can have special units that fit on the top of the mesh.

The light itself should be around 10.00 UV level, if you are unsure when buying it is best to ask! The light should be replaced around every six months to ensure its UV output is still at optimum levels. To replicate the environment that a beardie is naturally in you should keep both the basking lamp and fluorescent light on for no more than 14 hours. In the winter months this should be decreased to around 12 hours. After this 'day' period you should turn off the fluorescent light and either dim or turn off the basking light. It is generally better to dim the basking light so there is still some heat being produced in the basking area. You can buy a range of timers and dimmers for this purpose although they are not necessary as you can just turn it off manually.


Cage decor for the Beardie

Beardies require only the most basic decor, substrate, water bowl and somewhere to hide and climb. However you may prefer to create a more stimulating environment both for you and your beardie!

Substrate is the most important thing. It should be carefully considered, there are many different opinions on substrate types, so you should generally use your good sense when choosing. It is important to remember the age of the beardie, fine substrates can be swallowed easily and cause impaction in young lizards. You also need to keep in mind how clean the substrate will be, how easy will it be for you to spot clean? Also, substrate should not be more than an inch thick, as this will stop the heat mat from working properly.

Generally people use sand for older beardies, it is easy to clean and looks natural. There are several types of sand, from calcium sand to fine 'repti-sand'. Which one you use is up to you and how well your beardie responds to it.

You can also consider shelf liner, reptile carpet or newspaper, especially for younger Beardies as it reduces the risk of impaction. However it doesn’t look as nice and some people have disputed the cleanliness of such materials, as they can be difficult to clean.

Some people even use ceramic tiles or large slate pieces, although they don't look as good they are easy to clean and heat up rather well under the basking light. However it is important to keep in mind the change to temperature it may cause. As a general rule you should do as much research on substrate and try to decide what you feel is the best for you and your beardie.

After you have decided on substrate you need to now focus on other essentials, like water bowls. The water bowl should be big enough for your beardie to get in but not deep enough for it to not be able to get out again! Some people use large ceramic dog bowls, which are easy to clean. You can also purchase resin bowls, which are also easy to clean and tend to be moulded to look like rocks, enhancing the enclosure's look. It is again, down to personal preference. The positioning of the bowl is important. It needs to be positioned at the coolest end of the vivarium, to ensure the gradient is maintained. You may also want to purchase feeding bowls, in order to contain insects and other foods stuffs.

Another essential is a hiding spot for your beardie. This can be anything from pieces of cork bark and mopani/bogwood carefully and securely stacked, to shaped hides, made from resin, wood or similar materials. This, again, needs to be put at the coolest end of the vivarium as most lizards when hiding prefer to be cool and temperatures inside the hide will rise if put too close to the basking lamp.

Additional decor isn’t needed, but will make the enclosure a lot nicer for both you and your pet. Things such as plastic plants, branches, slate and rocks can be placed to provide areas for climbing, basking and hiding. Be careful not to put live plants in, as they may be harmful. You should also try to buy wooden branches, as they will be free from pests. When placing decor keep in mind that Beardies are can be heavy and so items should be secure and no sharp edges present.

Cleaning your Beardies Enclosure

Having a clean enclosure is very important, dirty conditions will lead to disease and general discomfort for your pet as well as putting you at risk.

It is important you spot clean. When you see 'deposits' or loose skin from shedding you should safely remove it and any affected bedding. If any of the decor becomes soiled you should clean it with a lizard safe disinfectant and rinse with water.

Food and water bowls should be cleaned daily with lizard safe disinfectant and rinsed thoroughly.

You should completely clean the vivarium at least every three months, completely changing the substrate, cleaning the decor and vivarium with disinfectant and rinsing with water.

Feeding your Beardie

Careful consideration should go into your bearded dragons diet, as it will largely determine the health of you pet. Bearded dragons will eat a mixture of vegetables and live insects. If you are not comfortable feeding insects, you should consider if a lizard is the best choice for you as ultimately you need to think of it's health first.

If you are okay with feeding live insects, feeding time can be a fun and rewarding experience.

Firstly you need to understand how much a bearded dragon likes to eat. They have high metabolisms and therefore should have food available for the majority of the time. This can come in the form of mealworms, dried food and vegetables, with things such as crickets or locusts completing the diet. You should never leave insects such as locusts or crickets in the enclosure for a long time as they will nibble your pet, causing annoyance and pain.

You also need to provide fresh water everyday. Although desert creatures, they need water. Some of this is obtained through food although they will enjoy the very occasional misting of water.

When feeding your dragon, it is best to give it no more food than can be consumed within 10 minutes, with the exception of vegetation, which can be left in for the day. Insects should be removed after 10-15 minutes and vegetation and dry foods removed at the end of the day.

A young bearded dragon should be fed on small amounts of small brown crickets 2-3 times a day. Mealworms should be excluded from their diet at this stage. This is the same for young or 'sub' adult beardies. When feeding crickets, they should be no bigger than the size of the gap in between their eyes.

Young Beardies can also be fed on commercial foods, specially formulated for young bearded dragons. This should be fed in accordance to the manufacturer's instructions.

An adult Beardie can be fed larger crickets, 2-3 times a day. They may also be willing to take locusts. New foods can be introduced to the adult Beardie, including mealworms, which can be left in a suitable bowl in the enclosure. Wax worms can also make a delicious treat for your Beardie, however they should be given in moderation, both to stop selective eating and weight gain!

Adult bearded dragons will also love to eat vegetables; spring greens are a particular favourite. Make sure you wash any vegetables you provide, ensuring any pesticides or preservatives have been removed.

You can also feed manufactured dry foods formulated especially for adult beardies and always in accordance with the manufacturers instructions.

Shedding in Beardies

As your Bearded Dragon grows, it will shed its skin. During this time it may be less inclined to be 'active' and may dislike being held. It is important that you don't pull or try to 'help' you pet shed. It is quite capable of rubbing it off on decor items within its enclosure. Unlike snakes, the skin will fall off in parts, so don't be alarmed! If you think it's having trouble shedding you can give it a light mist with some lukewarm water.

Problems you may encounter

Beardies rarely encounter problems if kept properly, however if your beardie does become ill this will help you to know what to do next!

Impaction

This comes from the beardie eating too much or eating fine substrates or other foreign objects, such as sand, plastic plants, small pebbles and so on. Signs include loss of appetite, sluggish behaviour, bloated or discoloured abdomen, hiding away and not passing stools. It can, in early stages, be solved by firstly removing any possible causes, reducing food and bathing for 10-15 mins in warm (not hot) water everyday to encourage the lizard to pass stools and the blockage.

If symptoms persist you should seek veternary treatment.

Mites

Caused by unsanitary conditions, infection from external causes or contact with other infected animals or objects. It is more common on wild caught specimens. Signs include the beardie rubbing on items, scales looking 'lifted' and small brown, white, tan or black specks embedded between scales. You may also see 'specks' running over the surface, particularly near the vent, eyes, mouth and joints. Usually a pre-prepared solution, applied as directed gets rid of the mites on the animal. You should also do a complete clean of the cage and bedding, making sure to soak decor in hot water and buy new bedding. You should also try to find the source of the problem and deal with it accordingly.

Sometimes the problem can be more persistent, in which case treatment from a vet may be required.

Injuries

Sometimes, through climbing or if kept together, fighting, your pet may sustain an injury. A little iodine applied to minor injuries can ensure no infection happens, although it is generally better to seek veterinarian advice. You should always seek a vet's advice for breaks and larger injuries.

Tail/Scale rot

Caused by keeping the enclosure too wet or by keeping the lizard in unsanitary conditions. Symptoms include blackening of the area, softening of the skin and general unhealthy appearance. You should clean the Beardies enclosure and make sure it is kept dry. Because this is an infection a vet's advice should be sought.

Coccidia

This is a intestinal parasite, rarely contracted by captive bred Beardies, however in the case of your pet contracting it you will see sluggish behaviour, diarrhoea, bloating of the abdomen and fluid loss (characterized by 'wrinkly' skin that sticks as wrinkles and appears baggy) You should consult your vet if this occurs.

Metabolic bone disease (MBD)

Rare in well looked after specimens, this comes from ongoing poor nutrition and inefficient lighting exposure (lack of UV) it will cause softening of bone tissue, particularly in jaw tail and spine. It will cause bones to break easily and slow the rate of growth. The only cure for this is usually prevention, which is why it is important to give your pet the correct nutrition. If you have acquired a specimen with MBD you should seek a vets advice.

Impaction in reptiles

Impaction - what is it and how do I treat it?

Impaction is a condition that affects reptiles. It is a common problem in geckos and Bearded dragons, although can occur in most reptiles. It is when a foreign object that it cannot digest becomes blocked in the digestive tract. It can, if not treated, be fatal.

Causes of impaction

Impaction is caused by swallowing objects that the animal cannot digest, such as substrate plastic plants and unsuitable food items. Most commonly they are swallowed by accident, when the reptile attacks prey. Mostly sand, small rocks and parts of décor are to blame as they aren’t something you’d think your lizard would eat, even accidentally! Giving the wrong type of food at the wrong stages is also a threat.

Preventing impaction

The first line of defence against impaction is prevention. Don’t use fine sands with young geckos or beardies; instead use chunky wood based substrate, ceramic, newspaper or slate that is labelled suitable. Avoid calcium sand with young geckos too; as they will ingest it to get the nutrients from it, unfortunately they can’t fully digest it leading to a risk of impaction. You can supply a small bowl of calcium supplement for the young gecko to dip into from time to time.

Be careful with your décor, especially with young lizards. Quite often the young reptile will mistake the authentic looking leaves for real vegetation! Although most reptile décor is durable enough to withstand this attack, aquarium décor or old décor may not. Checking that there are no bits coming off of plastic plants is a good routine to get into, better still avoid plastic plants all together until your reptile is bigger.

Food items can also pose a problem. Harder foods are often a problem for younger lizards, especially geckos. Avoid black crickets (sometimes called field crickets) and mealworms until the animal is older. Instead feed brown crickets and wax worms, which do not have the hard casing black crickets and mealworms have, which can cause impaction.

How do I know if my pet is impacted?

Usually refusal to eat is the first sign. However this shouldn’t be taken as a symptom alone, many reptiles go off food for periods of time and sometimes it may be down to the wrong environment. So the next symptom is to see if your pet has been passing regularly. If not at all or infrequently you should check the abdomen, which may be swollen, distended, black or blue coloured or puffy. Your pet may also seem sluggish, hiding up and refusing to drink.

I think my pet may be impacted, what do I do now?

Firstly, don’t keep feeding, as the reptile is unlikely to take food. If he or she feels better they might but that doesn’t mean the impaction is cleared and therefore may add to the problem. Secondly you will need to bathe your pet. Take a shallow dish, separate container (or if your reptile is large, even a bath!) and fill it just enough to rest the reptile comfortably in. The water needs to room temperature. Allow it to soak for 10 to 15 minutes; this should encourage the reptile to pass waste and the impaction along with it. You can do this twice a day, but if in a couple of days nothing has happened it may be best to seek a vets advice.

The History of Dog Clothes - How Did Your Dog Came to Wear Clothes?

Do you know the history of dog clothes?

Dog clothes were first and foremost worn in the military and regulation enforcement regions, in order to save the dog from neighbouring atmosphere and assaults. Nowadays, dogs are also used as watchful sniffers in police departments, army and investigation departments. But a dog's chief responsibility is to be a darling to a person or a family. For this basis, dog clothing has altered with time. Dog clothes go a long way to being an extensive line of defensive for your dog. They protect your dog from cuts, scrapes, bruises, infections and bad weather. The foremost meaning is to keep the dog dry and warm. Animals have been dressed for centuries now but the meaning of dressing your dog has changed to a great extent. At that time, clothes were used to guard the horses and dogs from outside rudiments and attacks. But now they are a symbol of trend and fashion. There are garments in particular designed for extraordinary events and proceedings such as weddings and birthdays. Halloween and Christmas outfits are some of the most common. There are many festivals during which people prefer to dress their dogs in Santa fashion garments or princess gowns to make them look attractive.

Dog clothes comprise of all sorts of clothes that are limited to dogs. Body suits, dog sweaters, small dog coats, dog dresses, t-shirts, tank tops and sweatshirts are just a few items to choose from. Dog boots, leashes, tags and hair clips are some garnishes that accolade a dog's attire. Other frills and ornaments take in, collars, jackets, bathrobes, beds, boots, carriers, raincoats and toys. Dog clothes are not necessarily made for winter time. You may consider buying a dog coat for your dog this summer to protect from insect bites and scratches and scrapes when out walking in the countryside.

Even big dogs are conservatory of themselves and you could get dog t-shirts with funny sayings or bright colors to show-off your dog's personality. Buying big dog clothes is also another way to demonstrate them your care. Small dog clothes are now the standard and big dog owners don't want their big child stay deprived of them. What sort of clothes look excellent on big dogs? Big dogs look grand in dog t-shirts and tanks. Tanks are much simpler to put on the dog for the reason that there is meek fight with getting their big paws through the sleeves, and tanks are much easier to take off, in addition. But the key point is that it is immaterial what clothes you buy for your dog. They should fit properly and look good. Careful measuring assures that the dog has an easy fit and will take pleasure in wearing the clothing. Your dog should not feel uncomfortable wearing them. If your dog feels slightest of inconvenience, he will become restless or clumsy. Your dog can not complain about the clothes. He will wear whatever you put on him. But dogs have a different way of showing their discomfort. You will, as masters, need to understand your dog yourself. Follow the regulations properly and buy clothes for your dog. Consider things like dimensions, weather conditions, and skin type before buying clothes for your much loved dog.

This author lives in Flemington, NJ with her husband and 5 month old daughter and is an expert contributing author for a luxury dog beds boutique offering variety of pesonalized dog beds and pet keepsakes.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Caroline_Miller

Cat Language

Cat language

What is your cat saying? What does it mean when your cat waves its tail? Wouldn’t it be great if you could talk to your cat and know what it was feeling? Well, by reading simple body language you can! By taking note of what the tail ears and fur on your cat is doing you can see how he or she is feeling.

Tail carriage

The tail is the most important part in determining the cat’s feelings. It shows many emotions and can help you decide if your cat is happy or not.

Straight up: When your cat comes toward you or another object with its tail straight up, it is showing friendliness, it is most likely a familiar person or object and it is it’s way of greeting in a friendly manner.

Straight up and quivering: This shows extreme happiness. Sometimes this will happen as you greet your cat. Be warned though, this can also denote that the cat is trying to ‘spray’ in order to scent mark territory!

Straight up with a hook: this is a questioning pose. Seen when approaching other cats or unfamiliar people or objects. The cat is prepared to be friendly but is ready to be defensive too.

Straight up and puffed up: A cat holding its tail straight up with it all puffed up is showing anger. It may have been startled, been in a fight or is in a compromising position. It is annoyed and may be aggressive although it is more likely just showing its displeasure.

Straight at a slight angle: if the cat holds its tail straight but only slightly upward, it is feeling unsure. It is prepared to be friendly but also prepared to run away or fight.

Straight at a slight angle, waving: Usually to denote amicable feeling, used if around familiar people objects and it is greeting but not directly or putting too much interest in the person or object. More like an acknowledgement.

Straight out behind: A cat holding it’s tail straight out behind with little movement is showing neutrality. It isn’t bothered by anything right now and doesn’t want to be bothered or to bother anything.

Straight and down: A cat holding a tail straight and downward, with no movement is showing that it is ready to fight. It may display this to other cats, whilst hunting or toward people. Be warned, it’s ready to claw or bite. It could do this during play too, showing aggression toward the toy.

Up and then hanging down: If your cat is holding it’s tail slightly up at the base and then allowing it to hang down loosely it is showing defensive aggression. It is ready to defend itself although it would rather not have to. May be accompanied by a twitch.

Tucked: A cat holding its tail under or flat against its legs is showing submission. It could also be being fearful, but is more likely to run away unless cornered.

Wildly thrashing: If the cats tail is wildly thrashing it is showing an extreme emotion. Generally large, lazy swings of the tail show excitement whilst smaller more rapid swings show anger or irritation.

Gentle swinging: A tail gently and slowly swinging can sometimes mean contentment but careful consideration should be taken to how the cats ears are and where it is as it could also show mild irritation.

Tip of the tail flicking: The tip of the tail flicking could mean it is alert or interested in something. A slow flick shows contentment where a rapid or rhythmic twitch could show irritation.

Ears

Ears also play an important part of showing cats emotions. Not as expressive as the tail, teamed with the movement of the tail it gives a wider picture into what your cat is thinking.

Ears back: If a cats ears are turned back it generally shows aggression. However if the cats ears are upright and back this is confident aggression and usually denotes a challenge. This may be seen during play or toward other rival cats. The more the ears become flattened back and down the more fearful of the situation the cat is, the only way it sees out of the situation is to act fearful or nervous aggressive. This may be seen when the cat is challenged or comes up against something it doesn’t know, like a person or a dog.

Ears out: If the ears are sticking out it shows extreme unhappiness or mild fear. The more the go back the more the cat is feeling threatened and the more likely it is to react aggressively.

Ears right back: Often with a hiss or open mouth this shows extreme fear and although the cat would rather run, it will fight if cornered.

Other behaviour

There are some other behaviours cat show, which aren’t based in fear or aggression but in affection and excitement.

Vocalising: A quick purr or chirp from a cat accompanied by the right behaviour can be a friendly greeting. Sometimes your cat make growl or purr as you stroke him or her, to show contentment and affection.

Kneading: If cats knead you or where they are laying it shows complete happiness and it shows they are relaxed and content where they are.

Pressing with head or rubbing with face: This is a show of affection, they are transferring their scent to you to reinforce the bond between you and him or her. They are comfortable with you and content that you are there. May also be something they do as a greeting, to reassure you are still friends.

Rubbing around legs: For attention mainly, also to share scent, to reinforce the bond between you and your cat. An affectionate display, may also do to other cats and some other household members, such as dogs.

Whiskers: Whiskers forward or flexed shows curiosity or happiness. Whiskers back, shows fear when accompanied by other body language.

Tarantula the pet spider

Keeping a pet spider

Spiders might not be for everyone, but for some people they are fascinating and ingenious little creatures that make unique pets. There are over 38,000 spider species in the world, and climbing, however pet enthusiasts only commonly keep a tiny percentage of these. Most commonly kept are the tarantula species as they are large, have little venom and are fairly easy to care for. In this article you will learn the basics for keeping such a fascinating pet.

Before you buy

Make sure your motives for buying a pet tarantula are right. Some people buy them to look cool or even brave. This won't be good for you or your spider in the long run! Also make sure you understand they aren't companiable pets and they are more geared to being observed rather than 'played' with. Most tarantula species can live for around 5 years, some for much more, so put a lot of thought into if you really want one. Reading this through may help you decide!

If you decided you really do want an eight legged friend, research! You should look at what sort of tarantula you want and what its specific needs are. Some good starter species include;

The Pink Toe
Mexican Red Knee
Chilean Rose
Curly Hair

You should also be aware that if you have asthma or an allergic reaction to insect bites extreme caution and thought should be given to your decision. Tarantulas have a bite equal to a bee sting and can flick irritating hairs at potential threats. While the above species are fairly docile, they will still defend themselves if they feel threatened.


Housing a pet Tarantula

Most spiders need very small amounts of space. Most spider keepers use plastic 'faunariums' which are small plastic tubs with ventilated plastic roofing. These are more than adequete. Of course you can buy starter kits that have glass tanks and mesh tops or you can buy glass vivariums with mesh tops for the same purpose. It all depends on preferance and budget!

Keep in mind the dimensions, species such as the Pink Toe are aboreal, meaning a taller space, rather than floor space is preferred. Others, such as the Red Knee, prefer floorspace, to burrow and rest on.

You should position your enclosure somewhere quiet, away from household 'traffic' and noise. You should not place it in draughts, next to raditors or in direct sunlight.

Heating and light

Tarantulas do not require lighting however a small heat mat, either to cover half the tank at the bottom for terrestrial species or half of the side for aboreal species, is needed. A thermometer should be placed in the enclosure to make sure the temperature is correct for your species of spider.

Decor for your spider

Generally tarantulas require very little decor. It is generally easier to maintain the enclosure with less decor. Depending on the type of tarantula, you will require different set ups.

Food and water bowls

You will not need food bowls for your spider, however a water 'bowl' is essential. You should provide a small, fairly shallow dish or bowl made from either plastic or ceramic, you should avoid metal types as they can be harmful.Inside the bowl or dish moist cotton wool or 'bug gel' should be placed. This will help the spider to get extra moisture without the risk or drowning.

Substrate

You should check the individual requirements of each specie, but generally vermiculite, bark or other soft material, such as pete. Desert species shouldn't be kept on sand as it can cause molting problems, instead you should ensure there is a covering of dry vermiculite.

Other Decor

Climbing (aboreal) spiders, such as the Pink Toe or Stripe Knee will appreciate small plastic plants, either attached to the side or roof of the tank or stood securely in the tank.

Terrestrial species, such as the chilean rose, will appreciate cork bark, resin hides or even bark hides to take refuge in. Some species, such as the mexican red knee will like to occasinally burrow. You can partly bury plastic hamster 'tubes' in the substrate to recreate a solid burrow that won't collapse.

Any other decor, such as stones, plants or ornaments should be cleaned with hot water and inspected for sharp or dangerous edges. They are not needed and will be purely for the 'look' of the enclosure, making it a little more natural.

Moulting in spiders

Spiders grow by shedding their exoskeleton. This is a delicate process in which the spider is most vunerable. During this process the spider will create a large amount of silk on the floor or other stable surface. When he is ready to moult he will lay on his back with legs tucked in.

It is really important not to disturb the spider during this time as their outer skin, the exoskeleton, is literally coming off and any distruption can seriously damage the soft underlying skin, being potentially fatal to your pet.

The length of a moult can vary between species. The preperation can be a week or so to a few days although the actual 'shedding' process is usually around several hours. You will know when it is over as a 'skeletal' spider will be left and your pet will most likely retreat to safety.

It is important to gently mist the enclosure during this time, not soaking it but not allowing it to become 'arid'. You also need to be careful not to directly spray your pet! Food items should be removed from the cage and the water dish should be moist.

You should remove the moult, either disposing of it where other pets or children won't get hold of it or safely keeping it as a record of growth. If you choose to do this you should put it in a bag or container, again away from children and pets.

Feeding your tarantula

Spiders in the wild eat a great range of foods, depending on the species they will eat insects right up to lizards and small birds. Luckily most pet tarantulas, certainly those for beginners, are well suited to a diet of insects.

When purchasing your spider you should ask about what it is usually fed on, yes they do sometimes have a preferance! It will also give you an indication of how large the prey items should be. As a general rule the item should not be bigger than it's thorax ( the part before the abdomen, where the legs are situated).

When feeding your spider there are several types of food to try. Most common is crickets. Brown crickets are softer and more suited to younger spiders although adults will enjoy them along with the larger, tougher, black crickets (also reffered to as 'field crickets'.)

You can also give meal worms and morios although they tend to burrow and can be a nusceance to your spider if uneaten. Some people like to feed roaches, small locusts and the occasional wax worm, but this should be as a very occasional treat.

It is best to research what your species would naturally eat and with the advice of the supplier, use good sense to form a nutritious diet for your pet. You can also use gut loading suppliments to enhance the diet.

Spiders will eat only a little. You shouldn't feed daily, one or two items a week is more than enough. This should be altered depending on the size of the item taken. Younger spiders will require slightly more, perhaps 2-4 small items a week.

Any uneaten food items should be removed before the end of the day as they can annoy and cause damage to your pet. Spiders will somtimes refuse food especially before a moult. Because of the vunerablity during this time, even a cricket could kill your spider, so you must remove uneaten food!


Problems with spiders

Spiders rarely get any health issues, however there are a few that can cause problems and must be dealt with.

Mites

This is caused by too moist conditions, in which mites will multiply rapidly. If left untreated they will clog the mouth and 'book lungs' (the 'nostrils' on the side of the thorax) causing death. Signs of mites include the spider seeming reluctant to move, perhaps submerging himself in the water dish or curling up with legs underneath. To confirm mites, check in the night, when lights have been off, with a bright torch. If you see specks crawling on the tank walls, decor, substrate or spider, it has mites.


To deal with it you must move the spider to a different container while the substrate and decor is removed from the original. You should soak the decor in hot water and rinse the tank with a bleach solution. Be extremley careful to thoroughly rinse the tank out, if you can still smell bleach after it has dried, rinse again! You can then place new substrate and replace the decor along with your pet. If the problem persists you should seek a vets advice.

Exercise for small animals

Exercise for Small Animals

Rodents, being part of the mammal family, are curious and intelligent little creatures. Because of this they can get bored very quickly! When boredom sets in they can become destructive to their environment, gnawing and chewing on their enclosures. This is why it is important to give your little companion plenty of things to do, by providing him or her plenty of exercise. There are lots of ways to do this, all of which are fun and rewarding for both you and your pet!

Gnaw Toys

Rodents need to keep their teeth in check. Gnawing is a part of their daily routine and if they don’t have anything interesting to chew they will use bowls, water bottles and even their enclosures. Providing a gnaw toy will prevent this and give your little friend something to think about. There is a wide variety and it’s best if they type of chew you provide is changed regularly, to keep your pets interest. You should also replace the toy when it has become old or over chewed!

Kabob Mini Salad bites are perfect toys for all small animals, made from wood they come in a variety of interesting shapes. They are even better teamed with the Kabob for small animals, which you can slide multiple gnaw toys on as well as treats to provide hours of fun for your rabbit or guinea pig. If you prefer something more natural, willow rings or willow balls are interesting objects that won’t only keep your pet’s teeth in check but will also give somewhere to hide in or clamber through. Playstix are another good toy, which consists of bendable log strips, providing a gnaw-able refuge for your pet. You can also provide interest to your rodents diet, by adding small amounts of vegetables and other hard treats, such as dried fruit or rodent biscuits. Slat and mineral licks attached to the cage also provide interest and give your pet a good source of extra nourishment.

Out and About

On top of gnawing, rodents need to be able to travel. A hamster can run up to 10 miles per night, which goes to show how active our small pets can be! On top of handling items should be placed in the cage or given to your pet when being handled to allow your little friend to carry out this active lifestyle. There are a number of toys that can help you do this.

Hamster balls and wheels.

For smaller rodents, such as hamsters, you can buy hamster balls, allowing you to put your pet in a safe place while cleaning out the cage or changing water and food. It gives them the opportunity to roam freely and burn off some energy! Some hamster balls have changeable doors so you can stand the ball on a frame so it can act like a hamster wheel, or if you leave it in a pen, your pet can freely choose to go in and out of the toy. When using a play ball you should always secure the area, making sure no escapes down stairs or in potentially dangerous areas are able to happen.

Hamster wheels are also a great way of exercising your pet, either in its enclosure or in a run. Although they still have the name ‘hamster wheel’ many are sized appropriately for rats, guinea pigs and even ferrets! Placing one in your pets housing gives it the opportunity to exercise whenever it likes, keeping it happier and healthier. You should always aim to choose the plastic variety as they are safer and have no areas for feet or tails to be caught in.

Temporary pens and runs

If you like to let your pet roam free you can use runs and temporary pens to make sure it doesn’t get into trouble! Wooden runs are best suited for outdoors or larger rodents such as rabbits. If you want to section an area off in your home the foldaway hamster fort is perfect. It is a durable cardboard ‘castle’ with many partitions, effectively creating a maze for your small pet. This is a great way of letting him or her run free whilst you can sit and watch or join in the fun by placing tasty treats in the partitions. Another idea is to section an area off and provide tunnels and hides. These of course could also be placed in your pets enclosure. The ‘soft tunnel’ is a fabric tunnel that your hamster, gerbil or rat will love to tunnel through and play with.

Leads

If you like to let your pet roam free a lead and harness set could be perfect. Ferrets, rabbits and even guinea pigs can safely roam around whilst sporting a stylish harness and lead combo. This is a great way to know where your pet is going and whilst allowing it to explore a little. If you own a hamster, you can also use a ‘lead’ although this is to see where your little critter is going so you can keep it safe while exploring indoors.

Ladders, hides and other cage items

The fun doesn’t have to stop when your pet is back safely in it’s cage! There are a number of toys to keep you pet occupied when it’s relaxing at home. Changing these toys regularly to keep him or her occupied. The crazy climber is perfect for rats, mice and hamsters as you can attach it to the top of the cage and allow your pet to either climb around on top of the ladder like platform or play with the items hanging off of it. You can also purchase a number of hammocks for pets such as ferrets and rats, allowing them to go through suspended tunnels, giving them that extra exercise they need. If your pet isn’t much of a climber you might want to provide tunnels or plastic hides for him or her to explore. They might even decide to make a nest in there! The Bunny shake and chew is another great toy that you can put treats and gnaws toys on. It rattles as it is moved and is great for rabbits, who love the noise as well as guinea pigs and rats. You might even catch your pet throwing it and chasing it!

Whatever combination of toys you choose, remember to swap them round frequently. This will prevent boredom for your pet and will provide both of you with hours of fun and enjoyment.

Be a Beardie whisperer

Be a Beardie whisperer

Have you ever wanted to talk to your pet lizard? Maybe you already do. How about understanding what he is saying back to you? Beardies, like many animals, have a very distinctive way of communicating, which you can learn to understand. This gives you a better way of understanding how happy your Beardie is and how it feels about you!

Head bobbing

Both males and females bob their heads from time to time. They nod their head rather quickly up and down, almost as if they are dancing. This signifies dominance, especially when accompanied by a puffed out or darkened beard. It is common for beardies that are housed together to do this as well as when they see their reflection. Some bearded dragons may do it to things outside their tank, including you! Occasionally Beardies will bob their head to show displeasure, if they are stressed or they have been put back in their enclosure they will bob their heads to show they are unhappy about it!

Nodding

Nodding, unlike bobbing, is just a quick flick of the head. It can be hard to spot and is mostly done by adults, males mostly. Bearded dragons nod their head toward other bearded dragons to show they realise they are less dominant and that they are being passive. If you Beardie nods to you, he is showing he is passive toward you.

Bowing down

Some beardies, mainly young adults, will bow down low. Usually with their head, slowly and remaining in the position for a while. It is most commonly seen when beardies are kept together and after a dominant one has done a head bob or two. It is showing a similar thing to nodding but in a much more obvious way. Females are often seen doing this in order to submit to a male although younger males will also do it to more dominant adults.

Waving

Occasionally your Beardie might hop from one front foot to the other, whilst slowly waving the held foot around. It is seen mostly in young bearded dragons and very, very rarely in adult females. It is a form of submission, but rather than submitting it is more of an acknowledgement of dominance and means, ‘let’s not fight - let’s be friends!’

Beard puffing

This is sometimes just something they do, particularly in the morning to warm up. Sometimes it will accompany head bobbing, which is a display of dominance. Other times, if it suddenly puffs out, accompanied with gaping, it can be fright or nervousness and shows that it feels threatened.

Open wide

Gaping the mouth open wide can mean a few things in beardies. In younger specimens it is simply the way they regulate temperature. When accompanied by puffing of the beard or darkening of the colour it means that they are scared or intimidated. In extreme cases they may slowly tip their head back and darken in colour, puff out the beard, twist and broaden and emit a hiss, this shows an extreme fear reaction.

Colour Darkening

The beard on a bearded dragon is capable of turning jet black, or at least a very darker colour. This is often very rapid and can mean different things depending on the behaviour accompanying it. For example, darkening in dominance displays shows dislike and that the Beardie is trying to intimidate his opponent. When accompanied by gaping or broadening it shows dislike or even fear. If your Beardie is always darkened or has a dull or dark appearance then it may be stressed and usually this down to the temperature gradients not being correct.

Body flattening

Beardies generally flatten their bodies to show displeasure. Sometimes they will do it in unfamiliar situations and other times they will do it to try and intimidate another Beardie. It is often accompanied by Beard puffing and tail gestures to warn off the threat or other Beardie. Occasionally males will do this while circling each other, this is an extreme display of dominance, usually where neither will back down. You should separate beardies that do this, as they will fight.

Curling tail

Curling the tail is usually a concentration thing and will be seen by all ages, usually around feeding times. They tend to do it before the strike, meaning it is more of a balance orientated thing rather than a gesture.

Raised tail

Occasionally seen in males as a defensive stance, showing they feel threatened or are ready to fight. It is more often seen in females who are being submissive to males, usually when they are ready to breed.

Waving tail

When the tip waves slowly this is usually indication of an annoyance. Sometimes done in females who are submitting but are not happy with it. With males it can be used as ‘defeat’ signal but that the Beardie is ready to challenge the dominant one again. All beardies may be seen doing this at feeding time where it denotes a concentration.

Tortoise Love

Tortoise Love

Have you ever tried to cuddle a tortoise, in the recent hot spell I decided to have little siesta in the garden I lay on a sun mat; my Mediterranean Tortoise “Tommy” is always following me around the garden walking on my feet etc. but this time he crept under my arm and decided to snuggle up there he lay underneath me for about half an hour and somehow I managed to dose off with him there, the next thing I knew he’d moved out from underneath me and was giving my fingers a little nibble – ouch. I’m not an early riser but I know when he wants me to go out and be with him he knocks on the back door step, it sounds like someone’s banging on the doorstep with a mallet.
Snakey Sue

Hamster care

Biology
Lifespan: 2-3 years
Earliest breeding age: Male - 6 weeks;
Female - from 4 weeks
Weaning: 21 days
Daily water amount: approx. 30ml
Daily food amount: approx. 10-15g
Hamsters are mainly nocturnal animals. There are different species of Hamster. The most common, the Golden or Syrian Hamster, should be kept singularly except for short periods when breeding. Other species of hamster (Russian and Chinese) are best kept as a ‘single sex pair’ (2 males or 2 females together) as long as they are together from a very early age.
Housing
There are a number of different types of hamster cage on the market. The most common being a wire cage with a plastic base, and sometimes having a second or third floor above. Woodshavings make ideal bedding/ flooring material for hamster cages and shredded paper is an excellent alternative. Hamsters are actually very house-proud creatures and can be very easy to toilet train. Place a jam jar containing some paper bedding in the area your hamster normally uses to wee. Most hamsters quickly get the idea and do all their wees in the “wee-jar” making the cage much easier to keep clean and smelling fresh. Hamsters are generally solitary creatures that in the wild live in constant fear of being preyed upon. Secure hiding places where they feel safe and get privacy are important. The cage should have some type of box or house for the hamster to retreat into, and a good idea is to have a deep layer of shredded paper in the base for the hamster to burrow into. The wee jar should be cleaned daily the rest of the cage can then be left about two weeks between cleaning.
Toys
Provide your hamster with a wheel for exercise. Hamsters can be destructive by nature and one of the best toys to give them is something they can chew. You will find chew sticks available in pet shops. A hamster ball is useful when cleaning out but they should not be left in it for too long or unsupervised.
Food and water
Hamsters are Omnivorous, which literally means they eat everything! Dry “Hamster mix” from the pet shop is a good basic diet but it should be supplemented with lots of other things. In small amounts fruits and vegetables are good, as are small amounts of meat and occasional chicken or lamb bones. Hamsters can become bored of their cages so anything that keeps them occupied is good. Scattering dry food items all around the cage (mixed in with the paper) provides lots of good activity and exercise. Fresh water should be available at all times, and should be changed daily.

Pet Lizard Basics

There are approximately 5,000 "known" species of lizards around the world and a lot of them have become popular in terms of becoming household pets. The range in size, shape, color and look is so wide that breeders and ordinary pet lovers find them very interesting and for some, they consider their pet lizards as their collection.

But there are a few things one must remember when owning or planning to own a pet lizard. Unlike cats or dogs, these animals are usually unfriendly. Most lizards don't like being handled and are aloof, if not apprehensive, towards humans. So proper care and precaution must be observed when owning and handling one.

Lizards are complex animals. Just because you've had experience in owning or caring for other kinds or types of pets does not mean that owning a lizard would be relatively easy for you. These creatures have strict diets to follow. They have dietary and needs that you can't just simply guess and there are specific requirements for their tanks or housings.

If you are just a beginner in the field of owning a lizard, make sure to research all the important information first on how to care for pet lizards before you set off to buy one. There are various species of lizards that you could own, some look better than others while some look meaner or scarier than others.. Don't make the mistake of getting one simply because it looks cool or because it looks scary and you can use it to play pranks on your little sister.

Your very first consideration should be your ability to own and raise a complicated animal for a pet. If you think you can't handle owning one, then it would be best not to, but if you are insistent, then get those that are more manageable and will not give you too much trouble.

When you get your first lizard, make sure that you house it in a tank with enough space for your pet to move around and grow. Some breeders will opt getting two tanks for their pets. A small tank while the lizard is still a hatchling and another one when the pet lizard has become an adult. There is nothing wrong with this but it's a waste of money. Instead of getting two housings, just get one that will be enough to house an adult lizard. This way, you don;t have to transfer your pet from one housing to another.

In terms of diet and nutrition, the needs depend on every species. There are lizards that feed exclusively on insects, there are lizards that are vegetarians, there are lizards that eat small mammals, birds, fish and insects, while there are lizards that eat everything that will fit in its mouth. Before you get your pet lizard, make sure that you know what their diet is so that you could prepare your daily budget for their dietary needs.

These reptiles, just like every other animal in the planet, do get sick as well. Unlike other animals though, lizards won't show you their sick until it's too late. They either don't feel that they are sick or they are so good at pretending to be healthy. So be cautious of your pet lizards health and lifestyle in order to avoid severe illnesses that could cause its death.

These are just a few reminders and information that you might want to know about lizards. If you want to know more about Pet Lizards, the type that are popular and manageable to own for beginners, and how to properly care for and feed pet lizards, visit: Pet Lizards for more readings.

http://www.petlizards.com.au/

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Reptile supplies online

Crested Gecko's

Crested or Gargoyle Geckos

The Rhacodactylus ariculatus species is often referred to as the gargoyle gecko. Unlike other gecko species the gargoyle gecko tends to eat a large amount of fruit such as Bananas, Plums, Apricots, etc. (Apricots are higher in calcium). Provide a shallow water dish . Feed fresh fruit if possible although baby food can also be used as a substitute when fresh food is unavailable. Gargoyle geckos will also take insects such as crickets, or mealworms. Mealworms should not be fed to animals under six months of age. All foods should be dusted with a calcium and vitamin supplement such as Repton.

Gargoyle geckos have raised bumps on the top of their heads, large teeth and resemble the stone gargoyles found on churches and old buildings, hence the nickname gargoyle gecko. The gargoyle gecko originates from New Caledonia and is the smallest of the Rhacodactylus species growing to a length of around five inches.

Screen type cages are best as they provide more ventilation and a more natural environment than normal vivariums which tend to keep the environment too moist, this can lead to problems with bacteria breeding in the cage and cause ill health. Ventilation is very important when housing these geckos as they require misting regularly. Only one male should be placed in each enclosure although you may keep up to four females with a single male.

Daytime temperatures should reach 74 degrees F.in the centre of the enclosure. Use a basking lamp on top of the screened enclosure to give a temperature up to 82 degrees F. in this spot for the animal to warm itself. Gargoyle geckos are arboreal and need branches or plants for climbing. It is also beneficial to provide hide places with a moist area for the gecko.

The substrate should be a mixture of potting soil and sphagnum moss or Orchid bark chippings may be used. Gargoyle geckos do not need the high humidity that other Rhacodactylus species require. A daily misting of the substrate is all that is required to keep the humidity levels ok.
Female gargoyle geckos are attracted to moist areas to lay their eggs, although they rarely breed in captivity.

Breeding season is from September to January. These geckos are also relatively long lived with captive specimins living 15 up to years. Incubation temperature for their eggs should be around 78 deg F. At this temperature you would produce both male and female offspring. Incubation medium may consist of slightly dampened vermiculite or slightly dampened peat moss. Incubation time for the eggs is around fifty to sixty days.

Accurate sexing of gargoyle geckos may be done at the age of seven to eight months of age. The males have an obvious swollen tail-base.Coloration is achieved by multiple generations of selective breeding.

Things You Need to Know About Pet Guinea Pigs

Guinea pigs are very docile and gentle in nature and make ideal starter pets for older responsible children. They rarely bite or scratch, but are easily stressed, so they require careful handling. They are very timid and shy by nature. They are generally sociable animals and are most content when kept with other guinea pigs.

These animals come in several breeds. The most common are the English short hair (also known as the American) and the Abyssinian. The American guinea pig has a short smooth coat as opposed to the ruffled coat of the Abyssinian.

They're not particularly agile and do not climb well, rarely attempting to escape from their cages. They have poor eyesight, but well-developed senses of hearing and smell. They are also surprisingly good swimmers. They are nosey, friendly characters that are easily frightened and always rummaging around for something to chew on.

They often will whistle as an expression of excitement when their owner approaches or feeding is expected. They will also purr when being held or petted.

Cage:
Aquariums are not recommended, as they provide poor ventilation, and wire-flooring in cages irritate their feet. A solid-bottom cage is best. For the health and welfare of your pet provide as spacious a living area as you can manage. Bigger is better.
Recommended cage sizes:
One guinea pig: 7.5 sq ft...30"x36"
Two: 7.5 sq ft to 10.5 sq ft...30"x50"
Three: 10.5 sq ft to 13 sq ft...30"x62"
Four: 13 sq ft...30"x72"
Clean the cage completely once a week by replacing dirty bedding and scrubbing the bottom of the cage with warm water.

Diet:
Timothy Hay (or a grass hay) is the animal's natural diet. Alfalfa hay is also recommended for the younger ones 4 months and younger. Guinea pigs are herbivores ( unlike hamsters who are omnivores ) and like primates are unable to produce their own vitamin C. Without enough vitamin C in their diets, they can become very ill with scurvy. It is recommended that 1 teaspoon of vitamin C be added to 12oz of water daily. Broccoli and cauliflower are very high in vitamin C.

Bedding:
Bedding should be relatively dust-free shavings (Aspen, Hemp, Kiln-Dried Pine) woodchips, hardwood pellets, grass hay, etc. Cedar is toxic to these animals and should never be used. Bedding should never be allowed to get damp. Be sure everything's dry before adding fresh bedding. Change the bedding once or twice a week.

Weight:
Adults weigh between 1.5 - 2.5 pounds (700 - 1200gms) and measure between 8" - 10" (20 -25cm) in length.

Life span:
They will usually live an average of four to five years.

Unlike many rodents, these animals are born with fur and their eyes open.

Lamar Deane offers free tips and information on how to choose the The Right Pet [http://pets4usite.info/popular-pets.html] for you.

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Pet Parrots

So you want a pet parrot but have you thought it through? Yes parrots look like wonderful pets and Polly looks really cool sitting on pirate Long John Silver's shoulder or Johnny Depp's for that matter. The thing is, parrots are not pets you should get involved with either lightly or on impulse. There are some far reaching factors to consider and I have listed some of these pitfalls below. Parrots are fast becoming the world's number one unwanted pet so serious consideration of the following pitfalls to parrot ownership would make sense.


Parrots, depending on which type you get, can live for a very long time. Some live for up to 70 years. Will you still be around or is your parrot to become an heirloom bequeathed to one of your nearest and dearest?
Noise. Parrots can make an awful lot of noise. What about your neighbours? Do you live in a detached house or an apartment block? What about you, will you be able to handle the noise? At dawn and dusk your parrot will call out to his flock. He will also probably do a fair bit of calling in between times as well!
Mess. Parrots can make a whole lot of mess. Anything chewable can and will be chewed. Your furniture will be fair game and believe me the damage inflicted by a parrot can be great.
Behavior Training. Believe it or not your parrot needs to learn social graces. They need to learn how to behave, not just with you the owner, but also in the company of strangers. Are you prepared to do this? This is not something you can delegate and if you don't do it you WILL end up with a juvenile delinquent for a pet. That won't be fun!
Food. Feeding your parrot properly takes effort. You won't get away with just seed. Your parrot needs more than that. Fruit and veggies and occasionally some meat. My African Grey Parrot really enjoys his chicken bones. But not all food is suitable or even safe, so are you prepared to learn what is and is not suitable and are you prepared to prepare food each day for your bird?
I would not want to put you off having a parrot as a pet. Parrots make fantastic pets BUT they do take a lot of time and effort and it is better to go in to owning a parrot with your eyes wide open, rather than blinkered and then end up having to find another home for your parrot because you are unable to cope.

For free information on how to care for and train your African grey parrot visit http://www.african-grey-parrot-talking.com

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